Calvin Cool at Calvin Klein

Thursday September 17, 2009 5:13 PM By Anne Bratskeir

Some will like it hot  (actually you’ll love it) next spring and summer in Francisco Costa’s airy collection of feather-light dresses and gorgeous jackets (only one pair of wide slit pants in airy silk chiffon)– mostly white with hits of porcelain, gray, dune, black, aqua and washed coral.  The soundtrack crackled intentionally with static (as in heat) and models were high-glossed to appear sweaty (in a good shiny way).  The story here was shape and texture, forgiving dresses hung off the body, a pleat jutting from a hip, the best sculpted pleating of the week and much crinkled fabric – buh-bye iron. And the shoes, hallelujah – call ‘em “flatforms” – easy, flat wedges to make moving in the heat wave effortless.  All cool, classy and sexy without a whiff of overtness, Suze Yalof Schwartz, Glamour’s editor at large summed it all up, “This is for women who are hot…in every way.”

And speaking of hot, Eva Mendes, Molly Sims, Thandie Newton and Kerry Washington lined the front row.
 

It's the Isaac Mizrahi Show

Thursday September 17, 2009 3:46 PM By Anne Bratskeir

Thank you once again dear Isaac Mizrahi for the most entertaining show of the week.  This runway had it all: rain (as in real, wet, a dressed-in-black-actor escorted models through it with an umbrella), a golf cart squiring one top-hatted, sequin clad pretty, a giant set of stairs, and a three-piece band.  Oh yes, and the Isaac-ized clothes.  The show was called “Astaire case or obstacle course” – presumably for the dancerly dresses and gowns, and the saucily stylish day-garb that will help getting through the trials of the day much easier. Highlights included easy pleated trousers, neat jackets with extra lapels, asymmetrical flutter skirts, a sequin tuxedo shawl collared dress, a short, rounded swath of peach tulle topped by a wheat bustier, giant fabric sculpted flowers, and a series of charmingly eccentric body-hugging gowns with fluted hems.  Smiles all around.

>> See photos of the Isaac Mizrahi runway show.
 

Ralph Lauren goes to his denim roots

Thursday September 17, 2009 12:29 PM By Anne Bratskeir

Hope springs eternal and Ralph Lauren believes “in the resilient spirit of America,” played out on his optimistic runway with farmer, cowboy and prairie women wearing a heavy dose of denim (Ralph’s roots) – weathered jeans, overalls, blue work shirts and little floral “rural” dresses (was anybody thinking Sookie Stackhouse of “True Blood?”).  The blue-centric show moved from Depression-era faded jean looks (some tattered) complete with newsboy caps --though those rhinestone stilettos were likely not de rigueur in the day -- to sleeker menswear inspired suitings to glamorous evening interpretations: one pink frothy confection worn with an indigo slim jacket was Gunsmoke’s Miss Kitty meets the pretty city, a metallic blue lame overall gown (Janet Jackson front-and-center beamed), cuffed worn jeans topped by a lacy blue tunic overlay, and, so kitsch and cool: a sparkling pair of blue stretch denim beaded pants – shredded to the max.   

>> See photos from all three of Ralph Lauren's runway shows.
 

Step right up to Anna Sui's circus

Thursday September 17, 2009 6:33 AM By Anne Bratskeir

Step right up to Anna Sui’s circus under the big top at Bryant Park where spring colors and patterns are riotous and the message delivered by smiling models is happy.

While Anna worked the cute circus theme with braided majorette jackets and capelets; ring master suits in quirky plaids with matching ties, a cartoony lion intarsia sweater vest and a cheery circus border print with stars, well, nothing was clowny. 

Instead Anna’s hipsters will groove on her 60’s-style seemingly random mix-n-matches – Fair Isle sweaters, funkified Liberty prints, vests with chains, little dresses with big sunflower prints and even a fancy paillette embroidered royal blue party dress for when the circus is in town.

>> See photos from Anna Sui's runway show.

DSquared2 gets framed

Thursday September 17, 2009 6:32 AM By Joseph V. Amodio

DSquared2’s Dean and Dan “no, you’re not seeing double, they’re twins” Caten held a star-studded par-tay to celebrate their new eyewear collection (out in October). So did Mary J. Blige, Hilary Duff, Estelle, Ciara and Kelly Rowland (among others!) show up for the glasses?  Or the chance to arrive in a new Maserati Quattroporte S?  (The nice folks at Maserati provided VIP transport.)

Battle of the Bands

Thursday September 17, 2009 6:18 AM By Joseph V. Amodio

Instead of casting models for the first John Varvatos USA ad campaign, JV held a Battle of the Bands contest at a late-night party at his downtown shop (formerly CBGB’s). The winners:  Reckless Sons, an NYC rocked-out foursome. Chace Crawford and Dennis Quaid helped cheer them on. 

Doo.Ri's gray anatomy

Thursday September 17, 2009 6:05 AM By Joseph V. Amodio

Simple. Serene. With a tuft of fabric hitched to one side and draped.

That's what designer Doo-Ri Chung does best, and there were several great examples of her skill.

Many in shades of steel. Like the very first dress down the runway—an opal (aka pale gray) quilted silk dress with fabric gently scooched over one shoulder—minimal but striking. A few struck a little less (one dress with fluff of hankies over the tummy; a navy blazer with crushed-in-my-closet lapels).

But who can resist silver sequin panels on the side of a tulle sheath, accentuating the curve of a waist?

Perfect for those whose waists don’t quite comply.

>> See photos from the Doo.Ri runway show.

Peter Som goes madcap

Thursday September 17, 2009 5:59 AM By Joseph V. Amodio

There’s a ‘40s down-by-the-boardwalk feel to pieces that are layered and electric (most glisten thanks to metallic threads) and pattern-mixed—stripes, Japanese Hokusai woodcuts, a fireworks print and more. Killer: a digital leopard print on a steel-toned coat, or a field jacket made of supple, silver lambskin.

Marchesa in the nude...and then some

Thursday September 17, 2009 5:57 AM By Joseph V. Amodio

This presentation is tough on models, who perch stock-still on tall cubes in uber-high heels.

Wranglers circle, offering sustenance—a sip of water through a straw, a champagne flute full of M&Ms—to make sure nobody keels over. Designer Georgina Chapman had Madame Butterfly on the brain (obi belts, origami necklines), but we kept seeing flowers (a lilac ombre tulle dress explodes with organza petals; a black strapless sports a satin lily corsage).

The ultimate—a nude silk gown with hand-painted blossoms—or the matching painted stockings,, which looked like gloriously sexy tattoos up the legs.