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The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene

brook23 in Lynbrook: First bites

Lobster salad sliders are served at brook23 in

(Credit: Newsday / Peter M. Gianotti)

Gastropubs are pouring it on in Nassau and Suffolk, and brook23 bar + kitchen in Lynbrook is a sudsy, sporty addition to the show.

The casual spot has enough TVs tuned to sports to keep you up to date on any scores. You may be focused more on the food and beverages, which often are very good.

The kitchen sends out tasty slider-size lobster rolls and an especially flavorful "crispy double...

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Dinner at Oak Room Tavern in Sea Cliff

At Oak Room Tavern in Sea Cliff, the

(Credit: Newsday / Erica Marcus)

On a Friday night, all of Sea Cliff seems to crowd into Oak Room Tavern, and for good reason: The nattily appointed little room pulses with conviviality and, starting at 9 p.m., live music.

In the kitchen, executive chef Shawn Patrick cooks with undeniable talent, though his tendency to overwork a dish often obscures his skill.

I was happy to see razor clams as a special appetizer, and...

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Grotta di Fuoco in Long Beach: First bites

Fettuccine carbonara is served at Grotta di Fuoco

(Credit: Newsday / Peter M. Gianotti)

Grotta di Fuoco is firing up dining out in Long Beach.

Go down the industrial metal steps and you're in a bustling, lively, sub-street space that could have been exported from Williamsburg or another hot quarter of Brooklyn. And the lively, rustic Italian food is a welcome addition to West Beech Street.

Try a wood-fired pizza capped with eggplant, fennel, pecorino cheese, arugula and...

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Chill-chasing chili

"Z best" chili at Zinburger at Walt Whitman

(Credit: Newsday Joan Reminick)

The weather is starting to turn blustery. This calls for nothing more — or less — than a steaming-hot bowl of chili.

The hearty, soupy Tex-Mex dish knows many variations. Often, but not always, it’s made with beef along with chili peppers, cumin and tomatoes. Beans frequently turn up, too. You can also find versions made with pork, chicken or turkey. And for vegetarians, there’s meatless chili.

Here...

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Five Guys tests milkshakes

Five Guys Burgers and Fries is test-marketing shakes

(Credit: Newsday / Erica Marcus)

Five Guys Burgers and Fries, a formerly shake-free zone, began testing milkshakes at select New York and New Jersey locations earlier this year. I’ve always admired the fries at Five Guys. My relationship with the burgers is more complicated. I don’t exactly like them ... and yet I can’t stop eating them. (Readers: Has this happened to you?)

So when I learned that six of the shake-testing...

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Open in Levittown: Firehouse Subs, first LI branch of national chain

The new Firehouse Subs in Levittown is decorated

(Credit: Firehouse Subs)

Firehouse Subs, a Florida-based national franchise chain, just opened its first Long Island branch in Levittown. The chain, which was founded by firefighters, offers an assortment of sandwiches, some under 500 calories. Each restaurant is decorated with memorabilia from the local fire department. A nonprofit arm of the business, the Firehouse Subs Public Safety Foundation, also aids local first...

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Artistry at The Orient in Bethpage

Steamed whole chicken is garnished with Chinese mustard

(Credit: Newsday / Erica Marcus)

The Orient in Bethpage has a huge selection of dishes, some of them authentic Chinese, some of them American-Chinese classics, some of them the product of owner Tommy Tan’s fevered imagination. He is always excited to try out his new creations on customers and it’s rare that I leave the Orient without having gotten a taste of some new specialty, usually featuring filet mignon. (Tan seems to believe...

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Green Tea Restaurant in Stony Brook: First bites

Cumin tofu at Green Tea Restaurant in Stony

(Credit: Newsday / Joan Reminick)

On a recent busy night, the new Green Tea Restaurant in Stony Brook reverberated. There was clatter from the open kitchen and chatter from the mostly college-age clientele, many speaking dialects of Chinese. I, however, was too focused on my food to care much about the decibel level.

To start, there was shrimp dumpling soup ($3.95), a verdant spinach-chicken broth topped with one plump...

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Long Island restaurants: New reviews

Chef Richard Desmond's pumpkin tiramisu is boozy, airy

(Credit: Newsday / Joan Reminick)

In this week’s Newsday, Joan Reminick follows the dulcet tones of chef-operatic-tenor Richard Desmond to his new gig at Fargiano’s Pizza & Pasta in East Islip. The decor of the pizzeria is modest, but Desmond hits the high notes with a fragrant eggplant-basil bisque, delectable meat lasagna, made with hand-rolled pasta and a “pumpkin tiramisu with drifts of freshly whipped cream that is boozy,...

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Chef exits Gurney's in Montauk

The refurbished dining room is a refreshing highlight

(Credit: Gordon M. Grant)

Seth Levine no longer is the executive chef at Gurney's Montauk Resort & Seawater Spa. Jennifer Oz LeRoy also has departed as food and beverage director.

They were brought in with much fanfare earlier this year as the landmark resort, formerly Gurney's Inn,  continues to undergo a major overhaul under new management. Sucessors to Levine and LeRoy have not been named.

A spokeswoman...

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