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The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene

Sacramone’s: All systems go in East Meadow

At Sacramone's in East Meadow, the cheese pie,

Photo credit: Newsday/Erica Marcus

I hadn’t been back to Sacramone's in East Meadow since very soon after the trattoria-pizzeria opened in January. Before we even sat down, I was gratified to see that the original clunky, stubby wineglasses had been replaced with fine stemware. This is only proper, considering Sacramone’s very good wine list.

From that wine list I selected a $27 dolcetto. I’ve never had a bad dolcetto, but...

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This week's restaurant reviews

Elio Sobrero closed his Café Capriccio, at the

Photo credit: Alessandro Vecchi

In this week’s Newsday, Joan Reminick visits Haven Grill in Port Washington, the latest restaurant from Elio Sobrero. This time, the force behind Capriccio in Jericho and La Primavera in East Hills has eschewed the Italian and Continental offers for a leaner, grill-centric menu, “only to seduce you at the end with the kind of sweets he's built a reputation on.”

Peter Gianotti reviews Big Daddy’s...

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Chef De Bruyn checks out of Garden City Hotel

The Garden City Hotel's executive vice president and

Photo credit: Jason Andrew

Steven De Bruyn, who earned accolades as chef at the Garden City Hotel, has left the recently sold landmark. He's now executive chef at the New York Athletic Club in Manhattan.

The Garden City Hotel was bought by a Manhattan real-estate group. Staff members received layoff notices. De Bruyn departed before the announcement of the sale. He was chef for 15 years.

De Bruyn was in charge...

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In the Mood Ice Cream: Last licks in Woodbury

IN THE MOOD COFFEE & ICE CREAM, Woodbury.Ana

Photo credit: Agaton Strom

Sad news from Ana Mocete, proprietor of In the Mood, one of Long Island’s premier ice-cream parlors: She’s closing the Woodbury store and moving it to Charlotte, North Carolina. Her last day on Long Island will be this Sunday.

Since 2006, Long Island’s glutterati have flocked to In the Mood for the lush and elegant coconut-almond; the espresso chunk made with bits of good chocolate; the caramel...

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Peruvian Cuisine Expo: This Sunday in Freeport

You can learn how to make seviche at

Photo credit: Handout

This Sunday, the internationally-influenced fare of Peru will be on display at  the Long Island Peruvian Cuisine Expo, to be held in Freeport from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Tickets are $10 online, and $20 at the entrance, which is in  the Village of Freeport parking lot No. 4, N. Main St. between Broadway and Randall Ave.

Cooking demonstrations will be in both Spanish and English. At 12:15...

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Original Kasper's Hot Dogs: Open in Northport

The Original Kasper's hot dog in Northport. This

Photo credit: Handout

After closing down for a brief period, The Original Kasper’s Hot Dogs in Northport is up and running again with a new co-owner at the helm. Artie Berke, of the nearby Nina’s Pizza,  has expanded what was once a limited menu while retaining the smoky steamed franks the place had been known for.

The new repertoire was put together by Franco LaRocca, who is now executive chef at Nina’s and,...

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La Pace in Glen Cove: Friday-night steaks

The warm and generous main dining room at

Photo credit: Newsday, 2008 / Bill Davis

Friday is "steak night" at La Pace with Chef Michael in Glen Cove. The Italian-continental restaurant offers four cuts of beef.

The 38-oz. porterhouse is $85; 14-oz. sirloin, $34; 24-oz. rib-eye, $39; and honey-and-soy marinated skirt steak, $30.

The restaurant also has seafood and chicken specials, including a combination plate with chicken Parmigiana, sausages and meatballs...

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Tres Palms in Babylon: First bites

Tres Palms restaurant in Babylon. (Sept. 2012)

Summer has slipped into fall, but Tres Palms holds onto warm days year-round. You'd expect that from a spot that takes its name from a surfing destination in Puerto Rico.

The new restaurant, perched at the Hi-Hook Fishing Station marina, offers a view of Great South Bay and a sunny style to go with its New American-traditional American menu.

Try the good New England-style clam chowder...

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Anthony's in Woodbury: Pizza not so well done

At Anthony's Coal Fired Pizza in Woodbury, pizzas

Photo credit: Newsday Erica Marcus

“Our pizza is well done,” the official motto of Anthony’s Coal Fired Pizza, is meant to convey not only the quality of the pies, but also the distinctive char they pick up in the chain's coal-fueled ovens. I’m a big fan of this style of pizza, but on a recent visit to Anthony’s in Woodbury, I found the pizza both too well done, and not well done at all.

To me, the soul of a pizza is its crust:...

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Yamaguchi in Port Washington: Tradition reigns

Toro tuna sashimi at Yamaguchi in Port Washington.

Photo credit: Newsday / Peter Gianotti

The only thing that changes at Yamaguchi is the calendar on the dining-room wall.

That's good.

Yamaguchi has reigned for decades in downtown Port Washington. It's a magnet for sushi devotees. Spare appointments, blond wood, brisk service and a no-nonsense approach define the veteran spot.

Try the lustrous sashimi of toro, or fatty tuna; or savor a beefy, maguro tuna roll. Enjoy...

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