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Review: New York's bumpy history as a food capital
"Appetite City: A Culinary History of New York" (North Point Press. 368 pages. $30), by William Grimes: New York's role as a fancy food capital began in the early 1800s as a pastry shop near the foot of Manhattan, run by two brothers — Giovanni and Pietro Delmonico from Ticino, the Italian-speaking part of Switzerland.
Half a century later, New York had four Delmonico restaurants with a staff...
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