Button up

An image consultant shows four college students how to dress like the professionals

Patricia Kitchen | Change@work

May 2, 2004

Second of a three-part series

'You don't have to spend a lot to look as if you deserve to make a lot."

That was the message that image consultant Dinah Day sent to four college students she's coaching in ways to develop a more professional image. Attire was the subject of the second of a three-part "charm school" makeover she's done to help the four better prepare for the world of work. (The first week focused on speaking skills.)

Clothing needn't be pricey, she said. But it is important to attend carefully to its fit and care, as well as to some generally accepted business style principles, she told them one Friday evening at a Manhattan studio.

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With each dressed for job interviews, she started her critiques with Carlos Castillo, who in his well-fitting black suit, white button-down-collar shirt and wing-tip shoes, she said looked like executive material. Maybe the next suit he buys could be navy pinstripe, she suggested.

But, oh, those glasses, she told Castillo, who is about to graduate from Long Island University, Brooklyn campus, with a degree in media arts. Day whipped them off to polish away fingerprints and other smudges. You don't want them to look "smeary," she said.

She also checked the length of his blue-patterned necktie, which came up a little short. That tie should hit the middle or bottom of the belt buckle, Day told him. She also brushed his thick, dark hair farther off his forehead, which "opens up your face." (He had already shaved off his mustache and goatee, based on her earlier advice.)

Later in the week Castillo, 23, wore that same ensemble to a school awards ceremony and found, "I had more confidence in talking to others - counselors, deans. It made me feel more vocal."

The next student, Okhela Bazile, a junior finance major from Pace University, has a "French chic" look, Day said. Bazile's black pantsuit looked great, but that open-neck blouse might reveal a little cleavage, which is taboo for an interview. Day showed her how to tuck the collar in to avoid that - also how to tie a neck scarf.

The black pointed-toe shoes and tasteful gold dangle earrings would not be traditional enough a look for an interview with a conservative employer, Day said. For a more buttoned-up corporation, Bazile, 21, would be better off choosing pearl earrings and less with-it shoes.

And, how about some face powder, mascara and lipstick, Day asked. For women a little makeup "finishes the face. It takes the shine off, which can be misconstrued as nervousness or rushing to get to an appointment."

Bazile does have makeup but because of her full schedule - classes, a part time job, an officer position with Women in Corporate America, a Pace networking group - she rarely finds the time to put it on. But by the next week she was resolved to make it a priority for any professional functions.

Next, the spotlight turned to Shablall Mohabir, about to receive his computer engineering technology degree from Farmingdale State University of New York. The previous week he was reluctant to part with his cap. But this week he arrived capless, sporting a white spread-collar shirt, gray necktie and slacks. His wife, too, had given the green light for him to shave his mustache.

"But Sha [as he's called], where is your jacket?" Day asked. When he said he didn't like wearing jackets, she said, "I have two words for that - too bad!" And even though Mohabir's interviewing with technology companies, she advised him and the others to turn off beepers and cell phones and remove them from belts, if that's where they're worn.

Mohabir's slacks were just the right length, but his shirt sleeves fell too far over his hands. A jacket sleeve should fall right at the wrist bone, and a shirt sleeve can peek out just one-eighth of an inch beyond that. Otherwise the hand looks "diminished," Day told him.

At this point, she also told both male students about executive length socks that prevent a glimpse of leg when men sit and cross their legs. And though neither had dirt under his nails, she did let them know that "real men do have manicures."

This week Mohabir, 23, has a job interview with a Long Island engineering firm and plans to buy a shirt with shorter sleeves and wear a suit - with the jacket. "You have to watch your look," he said. "It's the little things people wouldn't consider. If you put them into your routine, it might actually help a lot."

Finally, Emily Buchberg, a fashion marketing student at Nassau Community College, modeled her black pantsuit, pink hip belt and high-heeled boots. Because her field is fashion - she's a sales associate at Nordstrom - she gets to cast a wider net for attire.

Still, as Day whipped out a pink print scarf, she said, "Black is good, but I would like to see Emily with some color around her face." Such accessories - scarves, neckties, socks, hand bags - can be purchased for little money from street vendors and at street fairs.

Buchberg, 19, whose goal is to move up to a corporate job, is now arranging, under Day's supervision, to have her hair shaped for a more professional look.

Attention turned, as well, to other issues related to making a positive impression.

Bazile mentioned a telephone interview for a summer internship with Bloomberg L.P. Hearkening back to lessons from the week before, she asked how she could project an upbeat aura without meeting face-to-face. "They can't see me smile," she said.

"They can see you smile," Day replied. OK - it's really through varying your voice inflection. "Voice variety - the highs and lows - that's like a smile." Day also advised her to create and refer to a "crib sheet, an index card" with notations of her skills, experiences and questions. (Bazile ended up getting the offer, from Bloomberg's product sales division.)

Speaking of face-to-face interviews, Day told the group to arrive for them at least 30 minutes early to allow for transportation delays. (But don't check in with the receptionist until 10 minutes before the appointment.) If you are going to be late, call to let the interviewer know. And when you do arrive, apologize, but don't dwell on the frustrations of the weather, traffic or public transportation system. Just focus on the positive and say, "I'm so glad to be here."

Indeed, there are lots of details to keep in mind, said Day. But, as with athletic training, it's all about developing muscles. In fact, she told the group members that they might think of themselves as "Olympic business athletes."

Go to Part One of this series

http://www.newsday.com/business/columnists/ny-bzback042504,0,4926828.column