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Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene

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Erica Marcus

Erica Marcus has covered food for Newsday since 1998. She has written features about the origins of Grandma pizza, the controversy over matzoh brei, the mystery of the soft-shell lobster and many many articles that attempt to justify the hundreds of dollars she spends every year on knives and knife-sharpening. Since 2005 she has written a weekly column, Burning Questions, in which she answers readers questions. In 2002 her article, “A Knish is Still a Knish,” was nominated for a James Beard award, and in 2003 she won the New York Newswomen’s Club Front Page award for her “Food Without The Fuss: a history of TV Dinners.” After graduation from Swarthmore College, Erica took a job at Crown Publishers, first in production and later in editorial. She rose to the rank of Senior Editor and worked on a wide range of books, including many award-winning cookbooks. She left book publishing for newspaper journalism the same year she left Manhattan for her ancestral home of Brooklyn, where she still lives. She eats most of her meals on Long Island.

Madison’s on Hillside: Closed in Williston Park

The main dining room at Madison's restaurant in

Photo credit: Johnny Simon

Madison’s on Hillside, which opened last September at 38 Hillside Ave. in Williston Park , has closed, according to Joe Lester, chef-owner of The Ivy Cottage, Madison’s predecessor. The attractive New American restaurant earned two stars from Newday's Peter M. Gianotti when chef Jeffrey Slade was in the kitchen. (Slade has since moved on to Hemisphere in Bay Shore.)...

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Opera House in Roslyn Heights: First bites

Roti canai, a Malaysian flatbread, is one of

Photo credit: Newsday/Erica Marcus

Opera House, the four-month-old Asian-fusion restaurant that opened in the former Roslyn Heights home of Tofu, proved to be a very mixed bag on a recent visit, with high highs, and very low lows.

I was there with a friend who had never tried honey-walnut shrimp, the resolutely inauthentic and improbably delicious Chinese dish made from battered, deep-fried shrimp and sugar-infused, deep-fried...

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Cavaniola’s opens a Greenport branch

Cavaniola's, the Sag Harbor cheese store, has opened

Photo credit: Katelyn Luce

Cavaniola’s, Sag Harbor’s specialty market, has opened a satellite location inside Vines & Branches, the olive oil and balsamic emporium on Main Street in Greenport.

Michael and Tracey Cavaniola preside over a little gastronomic empire that also includes a cheese store, takeout shop and wine cellar in Sag Harbor and a Manhattan branch in TriBeCa. The Greenport store opened on April 10.

Tracey...

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Eric’s Italian Bistro opens in Mineola

Eric's Italian Bistro in Mineola, which opened in

Photo credit: Handout

Rejoice, George Echeverria fans. Today marks the official opening of the chef’s new restaurant, Eric’s Italian Bistro in Mineola

Echeverria’s first restaurant, Soigne in Woodmere, was a South Shore favorite for eight years before the chef headed north to Huntington to join the team that opened Amicale in Huntington in 2011. A year later he took over the kitchen at Andiamo in Mineola, with...

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La Piazza in Melville: The rush to capellini cakes

The fried capellini cakes at La Piazza in

Photo credit: Newsday Erica Marcus

Perusing the lunch menu today at La Piazza in Melville, I was immediately drawn to the capellini cakes ($11), described as “golden-fried pasta cakes, stuffed with green peas, Parma prosciutto, mozzarella, over pink sauce.”

How could those be bad? They sound like the fried capellini balls at King Umberto in Elmont, one of the tastiest morsels on Long Island. I ordered the appetizer as soon...

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This week’s restaurant reviews

Green curry with eggplant at Thai Coconut in

Photo credit: Newsday / Joan Reminick

In this week’s Newsday, Joan Reminick cracks open Thai Coconut, “a simply but tastefully appointed little restaurant just steps from the LIRR station in Wantagh. Hop off the train and within minutes, you can be communing with a bowl of sour-spicy tom yum goong that's rife with plump shrimp.”

Peter Gianotti reviews Il Luogo, the new Italian spot in Lynbrook whose “executive chef, Marco Jara,...

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