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Peter Gianotti

Peter M. Gianotti is Newsday's restaurant critic and wine-and-spirits columnist. He's the author of "A Guide to Long Island Wine Country," "Newsday's Guide to the Wines of Long Island," "Dining Out with Newsday" and co-author of "Newsday's Long Island Restaurant Guide" and "Eats NYC." Before reviewing restaurants, Gianotti was a Washington correspondent, economics writer, book critic and New York City reporter. Gianotti received his master's degree from Columbia University, where he also was a Bagehot Fellow; and his bachelor's degree from Fordham University, where he has taught journalism. He was born in Brooklyn, raised in Queens and lives on Long Island.

The Refuge in Melville: First bites

The Refuge takes over the Melville space that

(Credit: Newsday / Erica Marcus)

When Four Food Studio opened in 2005, it immediately changed dining out along Route 110, for decades the Death Valley of restaurants.

Now, its successor, The Refuge Food & Spirit, may do the same.

Almost no trace of Four remains. This has been a truly extreme makeover, turning the modern-to-futurisic dining areas into the equivalent of a Latin American-Italian movie set for a spaghetti...

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Tony Roma's to open in Commack

Tony's Roma's in Commack opens Dec. 11.

(Credit: Tony Roma's)

Tony Roma's is giving Long Island a ribbing.

The casual-dining chain opens a branch in Commack on Dec. 11. There are other Tony Roma's restaurants in Bayside and in Brooklyn. The Commack establishment is at 2 Henry St., in the Cosentino Commerce Center. More than two decades ago, there was a Tony Roma's in Syosset.

Specialties at Tony Roma's include baby back ribs, St. Louis ribs, beef...

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Tom Colicchio exits Topping Rose House in Bridgehampton

Tom Colicchio stands outside Topping Rose House on

(Credit: Gordon M. Grant)

Tom Colicchio has checked out of Topping Rose House.

The celebrity chef and host of TV's "Top Chef" will formally split in January with the locavore Bridgehampton restaurant and luxury hotel he helped launch.

Colicchio and owners Bill Campbell and Simon Critchell "mutually agreed to part ways amicably," a spokeswoman for the restaurant said. She added that except for Colicchio's departure,...

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Closed: JW's Public House in Glen Head

VIntage black-and-white photos that evoke waterside activities decorate

(Credit: Nicole Horton)

JW's Public House, a seafood restaurant in Glen Head, has closed.

Owners Mary and Bill Terzi cited requirements and demands by the landlord and Nassau County for shutting the doors. They would have limited the restaurant to 34 seats. The limit made closing necessary. "We have no choice," the owners said in a message on the establishment's Facebook page.

JW's Public House opened last...

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IMC in Huntington: First bites

Lobster sliders are served at Imperial Meat Company

(Credit: Newsday / Peter M. Gianotti)

IMC stands for Imperial Meat Company. The newcomer is downtown Huntington's boisterous, clubby, glitzy nightspot and protein provider.

You'll spot some signage to underscore IMC's image. "Rock 'n roll all night ... and party ... every day.' There are floor windows with lighting so you may be sure IMC offers enough Cavit. That contrasts a bit with a Warholian graphic colorfully boosting Dom...

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J. Michaels of Northport may relocate to Huntington

J. Michaels Tuscan Steakhouse in Northport.

(Credit: Newsday, 2011 / Joan Reminick)

J. Michaels Tuscan Steakhouse may relocate to downtown Huntington.

The original J. Michaels in Northport remains closed due, in part, to unresolved financial issues.

Co-owner Vincent P. Michaels said "the goal" is to relocate the steakhouse to the former site of Huntington Social on New York Avenue in downtown Huntington, perhaps as early as next month.

A small-plates, Italian...

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Kurofune in Commack: First bites

"Jalapeno tuna" is a fired-up, special roll at

(Credit: Newsday / Peter M. Gianotti)

Kurofune is experiencing something rarely seen recently: a full dining room.

The veteran Japanese restaurant is under new management, as countless signs outside advise. Inside, the once-genteel spot is looking spiffier, too. More important, the food has improved.

You'll find all the suburban standbys. But there are a few surprises, too. The "jalapeno tuna" roll does pack some heat and...

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Holiday nougat house at Uncle Giuseppe's

Torrone house at Uncle Giuseppe's in Smithtown. (Dec.

(Credit: Newsday / Peter M. Gianotti)

Gingerbread houses, often as inedible as they are ornate, have a tasty and good-looking competitor this season.

It's the torrone house.

Uncle Giuseppe's Marketplace sells an entirely edible and handsomely decorated holiday house made of nougat. The cost of this heavyweight centerpiece is $199.99.

 It's currently available at the Uncle Giuseppe's stores in Smithtown, Port Jefferson...

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P.J. Clarke's in Woodbury opening Monday

P.J. Clarke's in Woodbury on Nov. 19, 2014.

(Credit: Newsday / J. Conrad Williams Jr.)

Attention, paparazzi: P.J. Clarke's in Woodbury opens Monday at 5 p.m.

This is the lone Long Island link in the chainlet. The original P.J. Clarke's continues to do business at Third Avenue and 54th Street in Manhattan. The building opened there in 1884, but under another name.

The names associated with the bar and grill take in Frank Sinatra and Elizabeth Taylor, as well as Ray Milland...

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Duryea's in Montauk to stay open

Lunch on the deck with a view of

(Credit: Ellen Watson)

On the cusp of winter, Duryea's Lobster Deck has found its invincible summer.

The Montauk landmark will keep crackin' during the cold-weather months and will be ready for spring and summer 2015, too.

The casual restaurant was expected to close after the 2014 summer season. It was sold in spring, and a high-end seafood house was slated for the waterside site.

But Perry B. Duryea...

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