Hildebrandt's

84 Hillside Ave.
Williston Park, NY 11596-2321
516-741-0608
 
Hours: 
Tuesdays through Saturdays,lunch and dinner.
 
 


You'll feel as though you've traveled back to a more easygoing era at this ice cream parlor and restaurant that started business in 1927 and has earned its place as a local institution. At lunch or dinner, you'll probably have to wait for a table, a wait made more bearable by the buoyant atmosphere of the place.

The basics are treated with respect. Hamburgers are loosely formed, light, juicy, beefy. Accompanying fried potatoes, more like homemade potato chips than French fries, are a treat. The kitchen can venture into more ambitious territory. Try the chicken au poivre, tender grilled peppered breasts with a rich black pepper brandy cream sauce, or the delicious roast chicken capitola. They habitually overcook salmon, though.

For dessert, the house-made ice cream (so many flavors to choose from) is a must, especially with some hot fudge and clouds of freshly whipped cream. Today, as in 1927, that's livin'.

Joan Reminick.

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