Restaurants -- Newsday.com

Pasta-Eria
440 S. Oyster Bay Rd.
Hicksville, NY 11801-3515
516-938-1555

Hours: Lunch and dinner daily.

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(Newsday / J. Conrad Williams)

Although this strip mall pizza and pasta joint may look ordinary in appearance, it is anything but. Chef-owner Emlio Branchinelli (who also owns Emilio's in Commack) crafts a variety of pizzas so good that they may be the tops on Long Island. His pasta dishes are as delicious as they are inventive.

If you're waiting for a table (as you probably will find yourself doing), try a slice of marinara pizza or grandma pie. Once you're seated, you can contentedly nosh on some of the tomato and garlic-topped focaccia squares in your breadbasket.

Order the fazzoletti di seta, house-made pasta "kerchiefs" fashioned out of plain and spinach dough and topped with a wonderful meat sauce. Branchinelli's bow ties scarpariello - chicken, sausage and hot peppers in a white wine garlic sauce with a marinara topping is a dream.

Have some Italian ice for dessert.

Joan Reminick