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Best New American restaurants on Long Island

BY PETER M. GIANOTTI | Newsday Restaurant Critic

From its origins in northern California, "New American" cuisine spread nationwide, redefining what the country cooks. Locally, the style has taken many forms, and resulted in some of Long Island's most appealing restaurants. Here are five.

Heirloom
107 Forest Ave., Locust Valley; 516-609-2075.

A vintage site gets a contemporary update with excellent food and an unpretentious approach. Dishes include seared duck breast with goat cheese-and-confit beggar's purses; crab-stuffed rainbow trout with kaffir lime-coconut sauce; braised lamb ravioli; and chicken satay with three sauces. A la carte main courses are $19 to $30; Sunday-Thursday fixed-price menu, $30.

Jedediah's
400 S. Jamesport Ave., Jamesport; 631-722-2900.

Situated in the restored Jedediah Hawkins Inn, the namesake restaurant is a new American beauty. Look for the tuna three ways, with tartare, crudo, and sesame-seared variations; butter-poached lobster; pan-roasted halibut with butternut squash and apple hash; blueberry brioche bread pudding; and blackberry shortcake. Dinner main courses, $28 to $36; lunch dishes, $12 to $22.

The Lake House
240 W. Main St., Bay Shore; 631-666-0995.

A handsome dining room, looking onto Lawrence Lake, is the stage for vivid, inviting food. The notable choices on an ever-changing menu include wild mushroom-and-braised beef agnolotti; roasted wild striped bass in "bouillabaisse broth;" butter-poached lobster; rack of lamb on goat cheese-and potato-leek gratin; and the warm chocolate souffle. Main courses, $22 to $36.

Mosaic
418 N. Country Rd., St. James; 631-584-2058.

This cozy 30-seater seasons ambitious cooking with a bit of whimsy. Some favorites: caramelized sea scallops with pumpkin curry and eggplant; a tasting of duck, with charred breast meat, a terrine, rillettes, and jellied consomme; "turkey stuffing" soup; smoked pork loin and grilled pork belly with caraway-spiked plantain dumplings; and the house's riff on cheesecake. Main courses, $19 to $29.

Sagamore Steak House
650 Jericho Tpke., Syosset; 516-496-8000.

Although the kitchen emphasizes steaks, its equally at ease with new American fare. The stylized dining areas give a modern edge to it all. Try the pan-seared crab cake with chipotle aioli; "barbeque braised" short ribs on a potato pancake; the flight of little Kobe-style beef hamburgers; tuna, either panko or pepper-crusted; and, yes, that terrific porterhouse. An exceptional list of wines by the glass, too. Main courses, $22 to $38.