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Our favorite neighborhood spots

BY JOAN REMINICK | Newsday Dining Critic

June 2, 2006

By definition, a day of fun on Long Island includes good eating. At the following restaurants, you'll find spirited fare and a tab of less than $30 a person. It's always a good idea to call for hours and, when possible, make reservations.

NASSAU COUNTY

AZER BAIJAN, 1610 Old Country Rd., Westbury, 516-228-0001. The food of Azer Baijan, rife with Turkish, Persian and Mediterranean influences, is as reassuring as it is invigorating, especially the fluffy tabbouleh with cherry syrup and bits of pomegranate.

B.D. COOL'S FISH SHACK, 1391/2 Merrick Ave., Merrick, 516-868-9700. Chefs Brian La Rose and David Bryer work wonders in an open kitchen, sending out such intriguing specialties as a bowl of clams, chorizo, corn, tomatoes and basil called "clam love."

BIG DADDY'S, 1 Park Lane, Massapequa Park, 516-799-8877. Folks at this rip-roaring favorite know how to play with smoke and fire. Plates of Cajun, Southern and barbecue are enormous; most leave bearing doggie bags.

GRAFFITI, 1326 Peninsula Blvd., Hewlett, 516-791-2959; 8285 Jericho Tpke., Woodbury, 516-367-1340. From sprightly salads to hefty sandwiches to varied entrees, this American bistro duet offers well-executed something-for-everyone menus.

KIRAN PALACE, 67-71E Old Country Rd., Delco Plaza, Hicksville, 516-932-0918. At this strip mall Indian favorite, the curries are vibrant, breads exceptional. It's worth a visit for the onion kulcha alone.

L.L. DENT, 221 Old Country Rd., Carle Place, 516-742-0940. From the fried catfish and barbecued brisket to the warm hospitality of the mother-daughter owners, this strip mall restaurant is all about Southern comfort.

MIM'S, 33 Berry Hill Rd., Syosset, 516-364-2144 and 235 Roslyn Rd., Roslyn Heights, 516-625- 7305. The all-encompassing New American menus at this Nassau duo run the gamut from a simple burger to knockout sushi rice-crusted salmon.

MOTHER KELLY'S, 490 Chestnut St., Cedarhurst, 516-295-5421. Portions are gargantuan at this Five Towns standby for pizza, pasta and more.

THE ORIENT, 623 Hicksville Rd., Bethpage, 516- 822-1010. It's an ongoing banquet for food-savvy Asian-Americans and others, who converge for weekend dim sum and authentic Cantonese, Sichuan and Hunan dishes.

THE PIT STOP, 1706 Sunrise Hwy., Merrick, 516- 223-7799. Not just another fast-food joint, this is where to go for fine made-to-order soups, salads, entrees and wraps, such as shrimp with mango salsa and black beans.

POLLOS EL PAISA, 989 Old Country Rd., Westbury, 516-338-5858. Juicy burnished rotisserie chicken isn't the only draw at this informal Colombian restaurant with a menu worth navigating.

ROYAL TANGRA MASALA, 2207 Hillside Ave., New Hyde Park, 516-746-4898. Lollipop chicken is one of the Indian-Chinese surprises at a restaurant that doesn't stint on spice.

R.S. JONES, 153 Merrick Ave., Merrick, 516-378-7177. At this funky, kitschy Western-themed restaurant, the flavorful and freewheeling cuisine ranges from Southwestern to Southern to Cajun to whatever the whim of the kitchen may be.

THOMAS' HAM AND EGGERY, 325 Old Country Rd., Carle Place, 516-333-3060. When it comes to breakfast, Thomas' rules, with its lush, creamy oatmeal, nutty pecan Belgian waffles, house-made chicken sausages and more.

TINY THAI, 187 Main St., Farmingdale, 516-694- 3302. The resonant tom kha gai (coconut chicken soup) typifies the fare at this diminutive cafe where flavors are anything but tiny.

TREVI, 3357 Merrick Rd., Wantagh, 516-783-6837. At this trattoria with a wood-burning oven, chef Christopher Vacca produces deliciously smoky roast chicken and real Roman-style bucatini carbonara, made with eggs and pancetta.

UNCLE BACALA'S, 2370 Jericho Tpke., Garden City Park, 516-739-0505. The lure at this seafood-centric hot spot is chef David Ruggerio's bold fare (such as salmon in agro dolce) at reasonable prices.

WEST END CAFE, 187 Glen Cove Rd., Carle Place, 516-294-5608. Tucked away in a nondescript shopping center, this attractive favorite brings in crowds with big colorful salads at lunch and an imaginative bargain-priced sunset prix fixe.