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Fashion Week: Designers lead audiences around the world

A model wears Spring 2010 fashion by Marchesa

Photo credit: AP | A model wears Spring 2010 fashion by Marchesa during Fashion Week in New York City. (September 16, 2009)

Oscar de la Renta led his audience around the world, and they never had to leave Park Avenue. There was a distinct Moroccan mood at Baby Phat, and Tory Burch said she was offering a European flair. As for Michael Kors, he seemed to be thinking outer space, with some futuristic, plastic-paneled numbers.

Tory Burch

"I want women to get dressed and not think too much about it - not be too perfect. It's American classics with a European flair," said Tory Burch at her mobbed presentation. Casually chic outfits went from country club - checkered suits, a rosy pants outfit, a bold, flowered shift - to the night club - a gold sequined dress with a khaki trench coat tossed over it, a black leather tunic topping lacy shorts, and a sparkly teal tunic paired with a perforated leather skirt. As for accessories, a brand staple, there were comfortable-looking strappy sandals, cozy suede moccasins and one cute belt that featured a doll-buckle. It was a fave of Tory's when she was a kid. Awww.

- Anne Bratskeir

PHOTOS: Celebs at New York Fashion Week

Baby Phat

Back in the '70s, the uber-wealthy chose Morocco as the place to go for a little opulent debauchery, and Kimora Lee Simmons took that as inspiration for her spring line, called "Moroccan Kiss." It mixes hints of North Africa - fun, colorful tile-pattern-covered dresses and shorts - along with laced knickers, tie-dyed tanks, a cute denim jumpsuit and distressed jeans with silver shining through frayed edges. Of course, there's a lotta hoochie mama gear, too, but what else works with those gold-glitter stilettos?

- Joseph V. Amodio

Oscar de la Renta

It was a magic ride at Oscar de la Renta, where the designer took the assembled on an achingly beautiful world tour. Among the stops: Africa, safari jackets; the Alps, a white cotton blouse and petticoat beneath a teal embroidered dress; India, a divine series of embellished gold jackets, cardigans and dresses; Spain, lots of lacy mantillas. Fear not, America was included in the trip - a fabulous denim jacket trimmed in hyacinth tweed could be a wardrobe staple. And there was plenty for the red carpet, including the gossamer finale dress - a gorgeous mountain of gray and indigo tulle with crystal embroidery. What a trip.

- Anne Bratskeir

Betsey Johnson

The Palm Court at The Plaza hotel will never be the same. The posh spot for high tea was overrun by Betsey and her horde of saucy models. It was a raucous, rousing event, where models danced, smoked and made out (with boy toys who were part of the show), all while wearing Betsey's signature frills. Tulle petticoats erupted from skirts, skulls popped up on toile-like garden prints - and an electric blue cheetah print sizzled. Not exactly what you'll wear to meet-the-teacher night, but fun, fun, fun.

- Joseph V. Amodio

3.1 Phillip Lim

Phillip Lim melded tough and pretty, with a red lacquered runway that produced - natch - strong lipstick-red pieces, including a must-have trench coat. Sweatpants may have been the "muse" for the pants, with their rolled-down waistbands - haphazardly hip. Supple caramel lambskin tops and jackets were swell, and Lim left many backs open, tied with sweet bows. Flyaway pleated skirts played hide-and-chic with panels of sequins, while an antique silver sequined shirtdress was positively knockout.

- Anne Bratskeir

Narciso Rodriguez

Known for his clean lines and sexy, tight fits, Rodriguez loosened things up for spring, with a series of light and airy looks. Some, like a pale-pale-palest green silk crepe dress, or a gray organza jacquard number - both perfect for cocktails on a warm summer night - seem to lean back on the body and almost float behind. There were artful cutouts, asymmetrical hems, some hot pink, a "rain" print and gowns with long trains to catch the breeze.

- Joseph V. Amodio

Michael Kors

"Utilitarian luxe" is Michael Kors' buzzword for spring. Kors was a master slasher, cutting strips from airy cashmere sweaters and pairing these with sharp, structured pieces - a slim pant, a stiff asymmetrical skirt. Kors' witty futuristic take included a peep show of bellies, hips and shoulders visible through strips of clear plastic-like material worked into bathing suits and one dreamy, sky-blue shift. Evening shifts in black or silver paillettes featured sheer panels at the neck and hem - very swank. However, some sweaters sort of missed - askew, with oddly placed or missing sleeves. And one black dress with open cage sleeves, um, smacked of S & M.

- Anne Bratskeir

SMOOCH STYLE

Alberta Ferretti wants us all to pucker up. A red-lip print was smudged on short shorts and blazers in the Philosophy line she showed Tuesday night. You can just tell when a designer is having fun.

- Joseph V. Amodio

HAMPTONS STYLE

Brooks Brothers divides its spring collection geographically, and though Maine and Palm Beach had some good looks, we were most taken with the Hamptons section, with its rose- and stone-colored pieces. Also fun there, the 19th-hole golf shorts with "Bottoms Up" embroidered in the pocket.

- Barbara Schuler

GETTING STEAMED

Someone's always offering a quick blowout or makeup touch-up during Fashion Week, but here's a first. The stylish appliance maker Rowenta set up shop near the tents Wednesday, offering wardrobe touch-ups to get those wrinkles out. Actually, at this point in the week, most of us are more worried about the wrinkles in our brows.

- Barbara Schuler

PHOTOS: Celebs at New York Fashion Week

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