Long Island Restaurants

Danu

Danu opens white hot.

Here's an entertaining showcase, billed as "Asian Latin Fusion." And there are some sharp moves each way. But mainly, Danu fashions its own eclectic combo.

The irregular, theatrical space previously occupied by Wild Fin has been painted a brilliant white, evoking equal parts South Beach tropical and Stanley Kubrick cool. Danu clearly plans to transport you neither downtown nor uptown but outtatown.

The acronym name refers to creator-consultant David Nunez. But these nights, chef Raul Peguero and sushi chef Edgar Fernandez make Danu worth the visit.

Their large, stark canvas is broken up by stylized artwork, a telephone, the Heimlich sign. But overall the impact is direct: This is a backdrop for colorful cuisine -- which you reach via an industrial metal ramp, painted white.

Owner Edwin Torres' two-tier eatery is illuminated from above by what look like oversize, blanched shells and at least one candelabra, atop the biggest table, in a semi-private space almost draped off from the rest.

You half-expect the monolith from "2001" to show up for cocktails.

The background sound isn't "Also Sprach Zarathustra." It's neither Asian nor fusion. In music, Danu moves to decidedly Latin rhythms. On the plate, there are no borders.

Try the buttery, pan-roasted scallops paired with Spanish-style potato salad; or the tender, sweet Mongolian spare ribs. Consider the mellow oyster-and-corn chowder or the deftly fashioned rainbow roll of uncooked fish; the savory crab cake with a spiced-up beurre blanc or the snappy Danu roll, with shrimp tempura and toasty eel.

But all the adventures aren't so successful. Sweet potato-and-carrot soup is thin; tuna tartare with mango, spicy enough to overwhelm the fish; and an appetizer for two marred by overcooked, skewered chicken.

Peguero's best main dishes are seafood, especially the pan-seared, shizo halibut with melon-and-tequila sauce; and the spin on shrimp scampi-style, with zesty garlic sauce, atop a green plantain mash. His version of lobster risotto with corn and pepperiness has little to do with either Italy or New England, but it delivers sweet shellfish with flair.

The sliced hanger steak, with "white truffle yucca mash" and a mushroom-and-Cognac sauce, is a bit over-orchestrated. The fine, grilled filet mignon with garlic mashed potatoes isn't.

All this is artfully and opulently plated. Likewise, the desserts. But they're not on a par with the rest. The better choices are the trio of crèmes brûlée and the sorbets. Skippable: the chocolate-mousse spin on S'mores. And no need to knock on "Eskimo Igloo," a bland mousse-and-ganache construct.

The chocolate, of course, is white.

Reviewed by Peter M. Gianotti, 2/21/08.

Hours

Assessment

Cuisine

Directions

Major Credit Cards Accepted

Notable dishes

Price Range

Wheelchair Access