Long Island Restaurants

Cafe Classico

Caffe Classico (not to be confused with the restaurant Classico in Roslyn) has lasted for more than a decade for several reasons: The Italian cuisine is straightforward and satisfying, the Italianiate surroundings are graceful and pretty, and the staff, while not super-efficient, is unfailingly friendly.

To begin, try a salad of arugula with fennel and oranges, sprightly and colorful. Or find smoky pleasure in the melanzane classico, lightly grilled eggplant topped with fresh mozzarella, basil and sun-dried tomatoes. Best is the vongole posillipo, baby clams in a light, garlicky marinara sauce.

Chicken Sorrentino features tender poultry topped with eggplant, prosciutto and mozzarella and is lighter than you might think such a dish would be. Another success is the chicken Fiorentino, boneless poultry sauteed with white wine and served on a bed of spinach. You'll also enjoy the citric yet mellow chicken Francese.

Chilean sea bass marechiaro, firm white fish sauteed with white wine, onions, capers, olives and plum tomatoes, is a lusty treatment that works surprisingly well. Sogliolo (sole) classico is enhanced rather than overwhelmed by its sauce of tomatoes and mushrooms. For a garlic hit, try the linguini alle vongole, al dente pasta with baby clams and lots of the fragrant bulb.

Most desserts are made by Bindi, the Italian company that supplies half of the restaurants in the metropolitan area. Better, though, are the two house-made desserts, a light, moist, liqueur-scented tiramisu and a flan that's more pudding-like than custardy, dripping with a fine caramel sauce.

Late into Saturday night, the scene can become quite hectic. On a Friday evening or on a weeknight, though, you can dine in leisurely tranquility. The restaurant does accept reservations, so plan accordingly.

Joan Reminick.

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Cuisine

Major Credit Cards Accepted

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Reservations

Special Features

Wheelchair Access