Long Island Restaurants

West End Cafe

Chef-owner Bill Holden has pulled off the restarateur's hat trick: a strikingly beautiful dining spot with imaginative high-caliber cuisine at down-to-earth prices. Admittedly, those prices aren't quite as earth-bound as they were in years past. Still, it's near-impossible to leave the West End without feeling as though you've gotten solid value for your money.

First, though, you have to find the place, which is hidden away in a corner of a Kids "R" Us shopping center. Inside, you'll find Roman columns and billowing fabric. It's a world away from the suburban strip malls outside. Come, if you can, for the three-course twilight prix fixe, a terrific deal.

Your server will pour water from an antique-looking colored bottle, which is left on the table next to a basket of superior garlic rolls. Try to limit yourself.

All selections on the prix-fixe are also offered on the a la carte menu, which is not always the case at other restaurants. A recent dinner began with plump, fresh mussels in a heady saffron broth. Another opener, shrimp tostadas, featured mellow crustaceans and a lively black bean filling in a crispy tortilla wrapping.

An entree of salmon over white beans was delicate, light. Most memorable, on that evening, was a marvelous teriyaki-grilled chicken breast (boneless and skin-on) with soba noodles.

A homey "Granny" apple pie a la mode and a superb slice of chocolate pecan pie are two ways to conclude.

A lot of food for the money. A lot of style, too.

Joan Reminick

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Major Credit Cards Accepted

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Special Features

Wheelchair Access