Hamptons, New York

Bridges

PLAN TO SPEND the better part of a weekend evening or Sunday afternoon at Bridges. That's because this chic Hamptons multi-level space-decorated in shades of lavender, with raftered ceilings, French doors and lots of windows-is more than a restaurant.

Here, at brunch every Sunday, a gospel choir from a nearby church puts on a rousing show. And three nights a week, various jazz, soul and blues musicians perform. Factoring in the entertainment, the prices at Bridges, a bit higher than at most Eats restaurants, seem more than reasonable.

The bonus is that the food, prepared by chef John Jacob and his wife, pastry chef Susan Jacob, is a show in itself. A recent brunch began with a basket of Susan Jacob's chocolate-chip banana bread and moist, cinnamon-y pumpkin bread. An entree of superb southern fried chicken featured juicy poultry with a crunchy, spicy mahogany-hued crust. Lundy ham with a spicy bourbon glaze was a standout, as were accompaniments of savory potato pancakes, mashed sweet potatoes, wild rice and collard greens. Finales included an ultra-light ricotta cheese cake and a lovely raisin-studded bread pudding with a vanilla sauce. At 2 p.m., during dessert, the First Baptist Church of Southampton All Male Chorus came onstage. This remarkably talented ensemble had the whole house clapping and singing along. We left feeling buoyant.

And we returned with friends for dinner several weeks later. "I remember you," said the restaurant's effusive hostess, who also turned out to be our waitress; she was, we learned, Susan Jacob. We began with what might have been the best Maryland lump crab cake in memory, a loose amalgam of crab and herbs held together, seemingly, by magic. A special of seafood gumbo was another happy marriage of spice and sea, afloat with huge chunks of lobster, langoustine and shrimp. Spanakopita, Greek spinach pie, pleased some at our table more than others, who were put off by the strong feta cheese and the unorthodox use of raisins and pine nuts.

But an entree of rare tuna "filet mignon" with sesame crust and a velvety, subtly spicy Sichuan peanut sauce was totally terrific. So was the delicately aromatic five- spice trout with Asian noodles in a tahini-soy dressing. The only letdown was a special of salmon au poivre, a respectable piece of fish that didn't deliver on the promised pepperiness. Roast Jurgielewicz duck (from a local farm) was crisp-skinned, meaty and full of flavor with its not-too-sweet orange sauce.

As a jazz quartet began to play, we savored a striped triple chocolate ganache of milk, white and dark chocolates. Jacob's wicked pecan and macadamia nut pie could have stopped the show.

My advice? Come to the cabaret; just don't forget to call for reservations.

Joan Reminick. STAFF WRITER
Reviewed 07-07-2000

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