Montauk, New York

Nick's

Nick's is a combo plate: Montauk old and new.

Here's a friendly eatery, with tables outdoors and inside. The balcony fronts on the ocean. And the seafood is good.

Start with local oysters on the half-shell, or the shrimp cocktail. Steamers also are a tasty alternative. The "Bourbon Street" barbecued shrimp, however, are chewy; and the fried calamari more limp than crisp. The New England-style clam chowder is preferable to routine gazpacho.

The main course is obvious: boiled lobster. Sweet meat, moist, very good. The baked lobster, stuffed with crabmeat, onions and peppers, can be a bit dry.

That applies to the stuffed flounder, too. Instead, try the crab cakes with a trio of flavorful aiolis, or the grilled mako with an Asian-accented barbecue sauce.

No need to stick around for dessert. Just take in the waves.

Peter M. Gianotti

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