Montauk, New York

Shagwong Restaurant

The Shagwong, restaurant and tavern, has been a fixture on Main Street since the advent of lobster. It's a gathering spot, a noisy bar, a pretty good eatery.

Be prepared for crowds on a summer weekend, or, for that matter, on a summer weeknight. Waiting is part of the experience.

The better part, however, is steamed lobster, followed by the broiled variety. Pistachio-crusted salmon and pan-fried cod also are recommended. They send out a tasty sirloin steak, too. But skip productions such the generic broiled fisherman's platter, the versions of saltimbocca, and the pastas.

A sensible starter is the shrimp cocktail. Maybe, clams on the half shell, too. And the Manhattan-style clam chowder has a personality.

You don't come to the Shagwong for dessert and coffee.

Peter M. Gianotti

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