Toasting the graduate? We have some bubbly suggestions

Bubbles

The class of '08 already must feel like toast more than toasting. So, it's time to put some sparkle into the upcoming celebrations.

You can raise a flute with a couple of new local bubblies: the 2004 Sparkling Pointe Brut and the 2004 Sparkling Pointe Topaz Imperial, a spirited duet from winemaker Gilles Martin. Sparkling Pointe is owned by Champagne devotees Tom and Cynthia Rosicki. These wines were made with North Fork grapes at Premium Wine Group in Mattituck.

The Champagne-style brut is dry, fruity, easygoing, versatile and about $29. Topaz Imperial, a salmon-hued rose, is a bit more colorful and refined, with good fruit. It's about $33.

Locally, you also should look for the dependable sparkling wines of The Lenz Winery in Peconic, Wolffer Estate in Sagaponack, and Pugliese Vineyards in Cutchogue.

Turning French, consider the nonvintage Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Extrem, a crisp, citrusy sparkler that's all chardonnay and zero dosage - no sugar. Dry and tasty. About $40.

The nonvintage Pommery Brut Apanage delivers a full-bodied number from the Champagne house. This one is aged longer than usual for a nonvintage bubbly. It's a fine choice not only for drinking solo, but during the meal, too. About $50.

Among the less-expensive alternatives to Champagne and domestic sparkling wines is prosecco, the Italian contribution to bottled effervescence.

It's light and lighthearted, complementing plenty of appetizing dishes, and delightful solo. Reliable producers include Mionetto, Zardetto, Bisol and Nino Franco.