Tricks for pumpkin treats

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Good as pumpkin is in quick breads, muffins and pies, where it really shines is savory dishes.

The simplest of preparations can coax rich, buttery flavors from this relative of the squash. Diced and tossed with olive oil, rosemary, salt and pepper, then slow roasted, pumpkin takes on nutty, even meaty notes.

Or simmer it in milk with peeled, diced apples, onions and carrots, then puree with cumin, cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves for a sumptuous, hearty soup.

If canned pumpkin is more your speed, try it in this peppery risotto recipe, a creamy take on the Italian staple that blends the sweetness of pumpkin with the heat of cayenne and ginger.

Traditional risotto recipes call for heating the broth before adding it to the rice. This recipe works fine with broth at room temperature, saving a bit of time and fuss without sacrificing quality.

PEPPERY PUMPKIN RISOTTO

1 3/4 cups Arborio rice

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon butter (soy margarine can be used)

1 small yellow onion, diced

1/2 cup sweet white wine, such as Riesling

4 1/2 cups chicken or vegetable broth

1 1/2 cups cooked pumpkin or 1 (15-ounce) can pumpkin puree

1 1/2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger

1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1 cup grated Parmesan cheese

Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 1. Rinse the rice in a mesh strainer and drain.

2. In a large skillet, combine the oil, butter and onion and saute over medium heat until the onion is soft, about 6 minutes.

3. Add the rice and stir until well coated with oil and butter.

4. Increase heat to medium-high and add the wine. Stir constantly until the wine has been absorbed.

5. Begin to add broth, 1/2 cup at a time, stirring constantly and adding liquid as it is absorbed. Once the rice has absorbed all the broth, reduce heat to medium-low.

6. Taste to check the texture. The rice should be firm, but cooked through. If the rice is too hard or dry, add additional broth, 1/2 cup at a time.

7. When the rice reaches the desired texture, stir in the pumpkin, ginger and cayenne pepper. Cook, stirring constantly, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in the Parmesan cheese, then season to taste with salt and pepper. Makes 4 servings.

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