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Rating whole-wheat and whole-grain pastas

BY ERICA MARCUS

April 29, 2008

How good are whole grain and whole wheat pastas? (Robert Mecea, Newsday / April 29, 2008)

The method: I taste-tested 15 spaghettis, nine whole-wheat and six whole-grain pastas, with the help of a friend who cooks in a fine Italian restaurant.

Nutritional information: The numbers among all the pastas were pretty consistent: they all had between 170 and 210 calories for a 2-ounce serving, between 35 and 44 grams of carbohydrate, between 4 and 7 grams of fiber, between 6 and 9 grams of protein.

Logistics: Each pasta was cooked separately in salted boiling water until al dente, drained and then tossed with extra-virgin olive oil, grated pecorino, salt and freshly ground pepper.

The results: We were happily surprised at the results. Most pastas were more than acceptable. We evinced a slight preference for the whole-wheat pastas over the whole-grain pastas and, in fact, the two best pastas (Racconto and Bionature) were made from whole wheat.

Overall, the Italian-made pastas fared a bit better than domestic brands, but Effingham, Ill.-based Hodgson Mill made a good showing in the whole-wheat category where the clear loser was Fusco, artisan-crafted in Italy's Molise region. (Fusco's regular pastas, it should be noted, are very good.)

WHOLE-WHEAT PASTA

Excellent

Racconto (Italy): The only pasta that had a comparable taste and mouth-feel to "regular." This is the only one I'd serve with a simple marinara sauce.

Bionature (Italy): Resolutely wheaty, but pleasant-tasting with a good texture.

Very good

Campagna (Italy): Good overall

De Cecco (Italy): Good overall

Hodgson Mill (U.S.): Wheaty, but with integrity

Trader Joe's Organic (U.S.): Nice nutty flavor

Acceptable

Delallo (Italy): A bit flat-tasting

Rienzi (Italy): No depth of flavor, whole-wheat aftertaste

No, thanks

Fusco (Italy): Rough texture, bitter and overpowering

WHOLE-GRAIN PASTA

Good

Barilla Whole Grain (U.S.): Neutral taste, good texture. A fair swap for regular.

Barilla Plus (U.S.): Neutral taste, good texture.

Racconto 8 Whole Grain (Italy): Good, but not as good as Racconto's Whole Wheat.

No, thanks

Mueller's Whole Grain (U.S.): Dead tasting with a bad aftertaste.

Ronzoni Healthy Harvest Whole Wheat Blend (U.S.): Decidedly fishy-tasting.

Ronzoni Healthy Harvest 7 Whole Grain (U.S.): Decidedly fishy-tasting.