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Traditional potato latkes and 3 simple toppings

By Marge Perry and Erica Marcus

This is the classic recipe for Hanukkah latkes, though you can replace some of the potato with grated zucchini, carrots, sweet potato, parsnip for a more contemporary rendition.

The two secrets to latke success are having the driest possible batter and the steadiest possible heat. To ensure a dry batter, we suggest wringing the grated potatoes and onions in a dish towel. To ensure steady heat, use a large, heavy skillet (cast iron is ideal), use plenty of oil (hey, it's Hanukkah!), and don't fry too many latkes at once.

Olive oil is the traditional Hanukkah frying medium and it makes potato latkes particularly delicious. A good supermarket brand of extra-virgin olive oil (e.g. Colavita, Felippo Berio)

Latkes are best eaten right out of the frying pan. A close second is latkes made within the hour, drained briefly on a plate lined with paper towels and kept warm in a very low (200-degree) oven. Latkes kept longer than an hour tend to get dry and heavy. To keep them as light as possible, cover them with a damp paper towel and a cloth before placing in a low oven. And whether they will be held for 30 minutes or two hours, be sure to keep them in a single layer on the pans.

2 large (1 3/4 pounds) baking potatoes, peeled 1 2 1/2-inch yellow onion, peeled and quartered 1 large egg 1 tablespoon matzo meal or flour 1 teaspoon salt ¼ to ½ cup olive oil or vegetable oil

1. Grate the onion and potato on the largest holes of the box grater, with the grating disc of the food processor, or with a v-slicer or mandoline. Place grated onion and potato in the middle of a clean, dry kitchen towel, gather up the ends of the towel and twist to squeeze out as much moisture as you can.

2. Lightly beat egg and combine with flour and salt. Toss with the squeezed potato and onion.

3. Pour about ¼ inch of oil into a wide, heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Get the oil good and hot: a piece of potato introduced to the oil should sizzle and start to brown but should not burn. Using a 1/4 cup measure, scoop batter into the pan, forming it into a 1/2-inch-thick disc. Repeat, forming four pancakes, or as many as comfortably fit without crowding the pan. Cook until brown and crisp on the underside, flip and cook until again brown on the underside, for a total of 6 to 8 minutes. You may have to adjust the heat on the first batch so that the inside of the latke is cooked through at the same time that the outside achieves a nice brown crust.

4. Transfer cooked latkes to a nonstick baking sheet (or one lined with parchment or coated with cooking spray) and keep warm in a 200-degree oven until serving, but preferably for no more than an hour).

5. Add more oil to the pan as needed and repeat until you have fried all the batter. Makes about a dozen latkes. Recipe may be doubled, tripled or quadrupled.

3 SIMPLE LATKE TOPPINGS by Marge Perry

I love latkes with traditional applesauce and sour cream, but where is it written that there's no other way to enjoy them? Spicy and sweet salsa, honeyed yogurt and sautéed apples (feel free to substitute a little Calvados for the apple juice) may not be as traditional, but it's every bit as tasty atop freshly fried latkes.

APPLE SALSA

2 medium Golden Delicious apples, peeled and cut into 1/4-inch dice 1 red pepper, cut into 1/4-inch dice 1/2 jalapeño, finely chopped 1/2 cup chopped scallion 2 tablespoons lime juice 2 teaspoons sugar 1/8 teaspoon cinnamon 1/4 teaspoon salt

Combine all ingredients in a bowl and let sit at least 20 minutes. Makes 4 servings.

Nutritional analysis per serving: 58 calories, 1 g protein, 15 g carbohydrates, 3 g fiber, 0 fat, 149 mg sodium

CARAMELIZED APPLE TOPPING

Swirl in an extra tablespoon of butter at the end for an even richer topping.

2 tablespoons butter 1 tablespoon canola oil 4 Granny Smith apples, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch-thick wedges 1/2 cup apple juice 2 tablespoons brown sugar 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon Pinch nutmeg Pinch salt

Heat the butter and oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the apples, apple juice, brown sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg and salt, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the apples are soft and the liquid caramelized, about 6 minutes. Makes 8 servings.

Nutritional analysis per serving: 92 calories, 0 protein, 13 g carbohydrates, 2 g fiber, 5 g fat, 2 g saturated fat, 39 mg sodium

HONEYED YOGURT TOPPING

This makes a great alternative to the usual sour cream. Use rich, thick Greek yogurt (such as Fage brand), be it fat free, 2 percent or full fat.

1 cup Greek yogurt 1/4 cup honey 1 tablespoon chopped fresh mint (optional)

Combine the yogurt and honey, and refrigerate, covered, for up to one week. An hour or two before serving, stir in the mint, if desired. Makes 4 servings.

Nutritional analysis per serving: (made with fat-free yogurt): 94 calories, 5 g protein, 19 g carbohydrates, 0 fiber, 0 fat, 0 saturated fat, 22 mg sodium