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HOME WORK: Consider the sources of that inside leak

Gary Dymski | Home Work

April 10, 2008

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My wife and I have lived in our Colonial for 38 years. Just recently, we encountered water leaking into the ceiling of our den closet on the main floor. The water then enters the room from two places in the den ceiling. Then we discovered that the water enters the ceiling from the bathroom. This room is on the second floor above the den area. We installed a new roof about 17 years ago. Because of ice damming, the venting of the attic was improved, insulation was increased and a large attic fan was installed. A year before these improvements, we also had central air installed. This unit is in the attic area, above the bathroom/den. At the end of the year, the gutters were cleaned. We have tried to hire a roofing specialist to find the leaks, but they are too busy, do not return calls or do not perform this type of work. What do you suggest?

Jacob Young, Smithtown

You've given me more than a few sources for possible water intrusion. And you could have more than one leak.

One obvious source could be the bathroom above the closet, so you might need a plumber and not a roofer. Water could be leaking from a shower wall when someone takes a shower. Are you sure water isn't collecting on the floor outside the tub? You might also have a small leak behind a vanity, where the water supply lines for the faucet are located. Perhaps another supply line, to the toilet tank, is leaking. These bathroom areas should be the first to eliminate from your list, because they are the easiest to inspect. Look at all the water-supply lines, then examine the shower wall, especially where the tile meets the top of the tub. Wide cracks in the grout lines or in any caulk could be allowing water to trickle behind the wall and onto the ceiling below. If you find leaks, replace water supply lines or shut-off valves and recaulk and reseal the shower wall.

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You might consider the tub drain as a source, too. You could cut away the ceiling in the closet to examine the drain area and even the hot and cold supply pipes to the tub/shower. After a plumber has made the necessary repairs, to the drain or water lines, a piece of drywall could be used to fix your closet ceiling.

Once the bathroom has been eliminated in the hunt for your mysterious leak, move to the next possibility. Normally, I'd suggest the air-conditioning unit. When it was installed, I'm sure the contractor ran a line to drain condensation from the unit. During the cooling process, condensation builds up and must be drained from the unit. Usually, this condensation travels to the exterior of a building through a flexible hose or pipe. This drain line can collect dirt and grime and clog, so water originally intended for the exterior now collects in a puddle on the attic floor. After time, there's a wet stain or leak on the first-floor ceiling.

But since you're reporting a leak in the winter months, when your air-conditioning unit is not in operation, I don't think the drain line is the problem. However, you could indeed have a leak somewhere on the roof. Since you have access to the attic, make a visual inspection of the attic floor and the interior roof sheathing. Using a flashlight or project light, look for water spots or stains. If the stain is on the interior side of the roof sheathing, there's a good chance you have a roof leak. A stain along the wall or attic floor could mean a leak behind the gutters, perhaps a rotted fascia board.

Call local roofing supply outlets, asking for references. Say you want a contractor who specializes in small repairs, like new flashing and replacing damaged or missing shingles.

I have a 2,300-square-foot home that has groundwater coming up into the basement. I installed a drainage system with a sump pump to eliminate the problem. It is working fine, however, should we lose power I am concerned that the basement will be flooded. Do you have any recommendations regarding generators. What type of fuel and what size would you suggest to operate the sump pump, oil burner, refrigerator, freezer and some lights?

B.H., Jamesport

Actually, there's an easy answer to the first part of your question. Match the rated output of the generator to the maximum anticipated power to be used. It's a three-step process:

Calculate the wattage requirements for the tools, items and appliances that need power. The watts should be listed on the identification plate of the tool or appliance, plus it will be listed in the owner's manual. If power is listed in amps, multiply amps times volts to determine watts.

Add the watts of all items that will be operated simultaneously.

Find a generator with the power, in watts, that exceeds the total watts of the items by about 10 percent.

The Web site of the Yamaha Motor Corp. outlines the above steps in more detail (yamaha-motor.com), and it has information about picking a home generator for emergencies. (Click the links to "outdoors" and "generators.")

As for fuel, I think a gas-powered generator would be best. While propane might be cleaner to use, you'll find it easier to buy and store gas.

Of course, running a generator indoors, without ventilation, will lead to carbon monoxide poisoning. Follow the directions in the owner's manual.