Reviews of more AS SEEN ON TV products

Tucked high in our kitchen cupboard is a collection of gadgets my family rarely uses, from dicers to ratcheting tools to ravioli folders. We even have the blooming onion machine.

All these items have one thing in common: They were television offers my Mom couldn't resist. If an item is sold on TV, there's a good chance my Mom has bought two. (One for her, one for me. She's generous that way.)

A few weeks ago, my Mom sent our family the Gopher, a gripping tool that extends a person's reach. It has been advertised on TV a lot lately, so naturally, it ended up in our mailbox.

"Another thing that doesn't work, I bet," said Adam, 11, our youngest, unwrapping the package. Well, good news, Mom: The Gopher is one of those TV items that we found really works (more on that later).

"I bet you Nana is the only person in the world who buys these things," said Al, 19, the oldest.

Of course not, I said. Millions and millions of people buy this stuff. Look at the packaging,

"Millions Sold."

And that's when the idea hit me. These people, the millions buying this stuff - that's you - need more guidance. You need to know what works and what doesn't. Who better to tell you than me? (OK, so maybe my Mom.) You need someone more reliable than TV pitchmen Ron Popeil or Billy Mays, folks. Heck, on TV, everything works, everything looks good. How else do you explain season highlight videos of the Knicks and Rangers?

So here is a roundup of "As Seen on TV." Most of the items we tested were once only available through the tube. Over the years, several, such as the FoodSaver and the FlipFold, have gained popularity, so today, they're also available in department stores or through mail-order catalogs. No need to wonder any longer, though, about whether that TV offer is a jewel or junk. We've cooked, cleaned, flipped, folded and fixed, all so you can get the truth.

FOODSAVER

What It Does: The FoodSaver removes air from a specially manufactured bag, then immediately seals it. For our family of seven, this vacuum sealer keeps frozen food free of freezer burn for months. When removed, foods from steaks to sauces are store-bought fresh. Buy bulk and save is our family motto.

What It Costs: We opted for the most expensive model when we bought our FoodSaver Professional II from Chef's Catalog; it now sells for $274.99. The price includes a box of gallon-size bags, an 11-inch roll of plastic to make custom-size bags and two canisters for sealing things such as dried fruit or nuts. Smaller machines (from about $159) and accessories (bags, rolls and containers) are available in department stores.

Verdict: The machine is easy to use, clean and store. The drawback is that the storage bags and rolls are about $20 per package and not as reusable as the manufacturer, Tilia, claims. A tiny hole renders the bag useless; if we use a bag more than twice, we're lucky. But, overall, it's one of the most reliable and efficient machines we've ever purchased. The FoodSaver gets our highest grade: 4 Stars

RONCO SHOWTIME ROTISSERIE OVEN

What It Promises: Rotisserie chicken at home. We were skeptical. After all, Ronco owner Ron Popiel's claims to fame are the Pocket Fisherman, a portable fishing rod and reel, and the GLH Formula No. 9 Hair System, a hair spray that covers bald spots. You think we're trusting him with roasted chicken?

We roasted two 5-pound chickens and an 8-pound turkey breast. Each time, the meat was moist, tender and flavorful, and we added very little seasoning.

What It Costs: We purchased the smallest model, the Jr. Showtime, from a department store for $99 and had trouble fitting both chickens together. Then, we read the directions, which specifically say this model can fit up to two 3-pound chickens. But a 3-pound chicken is quite small. Go for the medium or large models.

Verdict: The infomercial boast of the "best chicken" you've ever tasted is pretty accurate. But the catch-phrase of "set it and forget it" isn't. Keep an eye on the oven, presumably because a chicken could fall off the spit. The Showtime Jr. cleans easily. Drippings drain into a removable pan at the bottom of the oven, and the unit gives the kitchen a wonderful aroma during cooking. Pass the drumstick, please. (4 STARS)

THE GOPHER

What It Does: After finishing our chicken dinner cooked in the Jr. Showtime, we needed a large coffee can to drain the dripping pan. We found a can out of reach (or so we thought) on the top shelf of a kitchen cupboard. "Dad, use the Gopher," said Matt, 12. One squeeze of the trigger, and its two hands locked onto the 3-pound coffee can. Extends reach by three feet.

What It Costs: At $9.99, it's cheaper than keeping an orangutan around the house.

Verdict: Dandy little item. 4 STARS

THE GATORGRIP

What It Does: Unlike an ordinary socket, which fits perfectly around a nut or bolt head, the GatorGrip automatically adjusts to fit any size bolt head or nut, even damaged and rusted. Small rods inside the socket extend to grip tightly.

What It Costs: The GatorGrip runs $14.99, including a ratcheting wrench and an adapter that fits the socket to drills and screwdrivers.

Verdict: I used it for a week or so, loosening and tightening any rusted bolt or nut I could find. It rotates awkwardly if not perfectly centered. 1 STAR

THE FLIPFOLD

What It Does: Clothing fits face down on the plastic tray, and then 1-2-3, sides and bottom are flipped to a standard folded size. It does work, but, really, is anyone that ridiculously inept at folding?

What It Costs: $9.99

Verdict: If your shirts look like they've been folded by a preschooler, this is a great solution. 2 STARS

HANDY CHEF 6-IN-1 UTENSIL

What It Does: This is a million-dollar idea that uses 10-cent material. The Handy Chef is a spatula, whisk and tong that also flips, lifts and grips.

What It Costs: We got two for $14.99 in the Smithaven Mall.

Verdict: The handle, made entirely of plastic, doesn't hold up. When you press it to grip, you can't seem to exert enough pressure for any length of time. Unless gripped just right, our quesadillas kept slipping back onto the skillet and salad kept falling back into the bowl. Also, the handle's lock mechanism, which allows the utensil to transform from whisk to a gripper, kept slipping out of lock position. 1 STAR

PASTA POT

What It Does: A pot with a locking lid and holes for quick, easy pasta straining.

What It Costs: The pasta pot we tested was purchased for $19.99 at a home show, but other brands can be found for less in department stores and on television.

Verdict: Like several items tested, this pot is cheaply made. The lid is designed to slip into a notch on the rim of the pot, then lock with the twist of a knob. However, the lid had to be fitted just right to slip into the notch. At our testing, the knob broke, so we had a pot of water and no way to unlock the lid. No stars; turn the channel.

ROLL-A-HOSE

What It Does: Years ago, when I lived in an apartment, I had a similar garden hose and reel kit made by Black & Decker. I washed my car in the complex's parking lot and wound the 50-foot flat hose to store in the trunk or a utility closet. My Mom now uses it to water plants off her backyard patio. Don't expect this new version, the Roll-A-Hose, to last as long.

What It Costs: $17.99

Verdict: Roll-A-Hose worked fine as we washed two cars in the driveway, but it is shabbily assembled. The plastic fittings are fastened to the hose material with a crimped metal tube. People who have purchased the Roll- A-Hose tell me it's prone to bursting at the seams. I found that 50 feet of hose around a large house was terribly insufficient. No stars; turn the channel.

COPILOT CELL PHONE ADAPTER

What It Does: What could be more convenient than taking incoming cell-phone calls on your car radio?

What It Costs: $19.99

Verdict: Remember as a kid, when you'd string two tin cans together and use them like a telephone? Well, those cans had less static and better sound than the CoPilot. The cell phone fits into an adjustable cradle, which plugs into the cigarette lighter. (The cradle broke twice when I tried to insert my phone.) A clamp then fits over the earpiece on the phone, and the radio is tuned to 96.1 FM. Incoming calls are supposed to be clearly audible through the car's speakers. One person on the other end reported: "I could hear you, barely. But if I had to listen to this more than a few minutes, it would be really hard to carry a conversation." No stars; turn the channel.

Related topic galleries: New York Knicks, Ronco Corporation, Rubber Products Industry, Newsday Inc., Fishing, Consumer Goods Industries, Homes