Home Delivery

Cleaner ducts won't improve health

Gary Dymski | Home Work

November 15, 2007

Article tools

E-mail

Share
- Digg
- Del.icio.us
- Facebook
- Fark
- Google
- Newsvine
- Reddit
- Yahoo

Can you tell me a little about duct cleaning? I've gotten some estimates, and the cost ranges from about $80 to almost $500. Do cleaning ducts and vents help with both heating and cooling efficiency? Is it really necessary to have these ducts and vents professionally cleaned? -- Dino Marchese, Malverne

I'm probably going to upset people in the duct-cleaning service industry, but I don't believe cleaning ducts is all that beneficial. I seem to have support from the Environmental Protection Agency, which has several fact sheets and reports at epa.gov/iaq/pubs/airduct.html#Summary and epa.gov/appcdwww/iemb/index.htm.

According to the EPA, "duct cleaning has never been shown to actually prevent health problems. Neither do studies conclusively demonstrate that particle (that is, dust) levels in homes increase because of dirty air ducts," the EPA says.

In forced-air heating systems and central air-conditioning systems, ducts indeed can collect dust. I think the best way to deal with this dust is by regularly changing air filters and by vacuuming dust from the floor and fan inside the air handler.

Gary Dymski Bio | E-mail | Recent columns

I have a forced-air system, and before each season, I use a shop-style vacuum to dust the vents and air-return areas. If these areas are really dirty, I wipe them clean with a damp rag. Also, I change air filters regularly. Depending on the type of filter, this can be done monthly. Forced-air systems older than 10 years should be inspected annually by a licensed technician, and this cleaning is part of the inspection.

Before spending money on professional duct cleaning, upgrade your filters and change them more regularly. Try using a filter with a higher MERV rating (Minimum Efficiency Rating Value). The higher the MERV number (1 through 16), the better the filter performs at capturing particles between 0.3 and 10 microns. Instead of buying those inexpensive fiberglass filters, look for filters that use layers of pleated paper and other fabrics.

Another great source for improving indoor air quality is the American Lung Association: lungusa.org. Click at the top right, under "air quality" for a list of options.

Can you do a story on replacement windows? We're bombarded with ads on windows all the time, and I just wonder what to believe. -- Roger, from a voice-mail message

I did a thorough report on replacement windows about four years ago ("Shedding Light on Windows," Sept. 4, 2003), and in many cases not much has changed. Glass has terrible insulation properties, so in the long run, replacing windows rarely is a good way to realize significant energy savings.

The article is available at newsday.com/garydymski.

However, new windows can provide a heightened level of comfort, better indoor light and a cleaner, crisper appearance, both inside and out.

One of the best resources for window information is the National Fenestration Ratings Council (nfrc.org). This nonprofit administers the only uniform, independent rating and labeling system for the energy performance of windows, doors, skylights and similar products.

Windows are rated in five categories, including air infiltration, the amount of light allowed indoors and resistance to condensation. Just remember a good rating in one part of the country, such as the Northeast, might not be considered good in another part, such as the Southwest. The Web site explains what the numbers in the ratings mean and lists acceptable ratings in different parts of the country.

One of the recent advances in replacement windows is in the framing. For years, vinyl was a popular and inexpensive framing material. But many newer, upscale replacement windows now use fiberglass framing, which mimics wood in appearance and has greater insulating properties.

My smoke alarms are old, dusty and look awful. How long do they last, and are they expensive to replace? -- J.L., Centereach

Smoke alarms generally last up to about 10 years, but a lot depends on the interior air quality in your home. There are two types of alarms: an ionization type that can detect small amounts of smoke and a photoelectric type that recognizes larger amounts of smoke. The best types for homes are dual sensor types. In most cases, each type is less than $10 and operates on 9-volt batteries.

In newer homes, the alarms are hard-wired or attached to the electrical system. These hard-wired alarms also have a battery backup (in case of a power outage). When the weather turns -- or when we move off Daylight Saving Time, it's a good idea to test your alarms and replace the batteries.

Installing them is simple. A plate is attached to the wall or ceiling, and then the alarm is twisted onto the plate. Installation and operating instructions are included in packaging with each alarm. Visit the U.S. Fire Administration Web site, usfa.dhs.gov for information on replacing and testing smoke alarms.

While you're testing your smoke alarms, also test your carbon monoxide detectors. These devices warn inhabitants about the odorless, colorless exhaust gas produced by the burning of fossil fuels from home heating systems. If furnaces and boilers are not operating properly, this exhaust gas can leak into living areas, causing injury and death.