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Home Work: installing sixplex electrical outlets

Gary Dymski | Home Work

March 13, 2008

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I really liked the idea of installing the new three- and six-space receptacles you wrote about last week ("10 Top Performers," March 6). Are they difficult to install? I have a couple of rooms where I use computers and other electrical devices, so I think they'd be a great fit. Tell me more.

Tom B., Bay Shore

They are called Triplex and Sixplex electrical outlets, manufactured by Leviton of Little Neck. Like you, I think they're a great fit for multimedia rooms and parts of the house where extra outlets are needed. In terms of safety, they eliminate potentially dangerous extension cords, plus the Sixplex outlet has a built-in surge protector, so there's no need to buy a free-standing device to shield your high-tech equipment against what's referred to as transient voltage. Both the Triplex and Sixplex outlets are wired like traditional duplex outlets; if you can wire a duplex outlet, you can wire a Triplex or Sixplex Leviton outlet.

Steven Zacharevitz, the Leviton designer chiefly responsible for the products, also tells me that both outlets can be fitted to conventional double-gang boxes. I was under the impression the Sixplex device needed a larger box, but that's not the case.

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One word of caution: You still must be careful not to overload the outlet, even if you have space to plug in devices. Remember this simple formula - amps, or amperes, times volts equals watts. So, a 15-amp outlet, common in bedrooms and living rooms where small devices are used, can carry 1,800 watts (15 amps x 120 volts). A 20-amp outlet, used in kitchens and laundry rooms, can carry a load of 2,400 watts (20 amps x 120 volts). Without being too technical, outlets should not carry more than 80 percent of their maximum load (a 15-amp outlet should not exceed a load of 1,440 watts; a 20-amp outlet should not exceed 1,920 watts.)

Watts used by an electrical device are listed on an information plate or label. Do the math, and you won't overload the circuit.

I saw your recent column about scalding from the hot-water tap in which you mention that lowering water temperature from 140 degrees to 120 degrees can mean huge savings in hot-water heating costs. I'm interested in finding out more about these savings. Also, are there any safety concerns with turning down the thermostat on a hot-water tank?

M.M., Port Washington

The U.S. Department of Energy has a Web site, A Consumer's Guide to Energy Efficiency and Renewable Energy, (eere.energy.gov), where you can find lots of ways to reduce energy use. For water heaters, many manufacturers preset thermostats at 140 degrees. This is much too high, but it's done, I believe, mostly to guard against bacteria buildup in hot-water lines. Tap water should run from the hot-water faucet at a minimum of 120 degrees to protect against Legionnaires' disease and other health risks. In some cases, to get 120-degree tap water, the thermostat must be set higher. If a tank is in a cold utility room off the garage, the thermostat might need to be set at 140 degrees to produce 120-degree tap water. To be sure, adjust the thermostat down toward 130 degrees, and then use a food thermometer to test water at the tap for the next couple of days. Keep adjusting until the tap water is consistently at 120 degree. Remember, you might have to dial it up a notch or two in the winter months.

As for savings, accurate numbers can be erratic; too many factors are involved. Just consider that water heaters typically use between 15 and 22 percent of energy in an average household. Turning down the thermostat, using an insulating blanket and insulating supply lines can help reduce the energy used to heat water.