July 25, 2008
Handsaws
WHEN'S THE last time you dusted off one of your handsaws for a woodcutting job? Did you slice through with ease or did the blade stick and bite?
If you found yourself struggling, there's a good chance you were using the saw incorrectly or perhaps using the wrong saw.
Even though power tools have pushed some traditional hand tools to the bottom of the toolbox, you can save time on small woodcutting jobs by relying on a good handsaw. In the time it takes to power up, the handsaw can finish those two or three minor cuts. And while making those cuts, you can get a feel for some old-fashioned craftsmanship.
Handsaws come in a variety of shapes and sizes, and some, such as coping saws, are designed for special cuts (a coping saw is thin-bladed and can make sharp cuts and turns in molding and plywood). Most do-it-yourselfers can get by with two saws, one for cutting across the grain -a crosscut saw-and another for cutting with the grain-a ripsaw.
Which type of saw is hiding at the bottom of your toolbox? If you can't tell by its shape (crosscut and ripsaws look similar), examining the teeth on the blade will reveal all.
The teeth on a crosscut saw are sharpened so its sides perform the cutting. The teeth are pointed to shred the fibers of the wood.
On a ripsaw, the teeth are wide like a chisel, so that they plow through the wood.
Look to the size of the teeth, too, to tell the difference between crosscut and ripsaws. Tooth size is determined by the number of teeth points per inch (or ppi). The lower the ppi, the larger the teeth and the rougher the cut. Crosscut saws often are found in 8, 9, 10 and 12 points. Ripsaws come with teeth sizes of 4 1/2, 5 1/2, 6 and 7 points. On both saws, the teeth are set, or bent away, from the blade. Alternately bending each tooth creates a saw kerf that actually is wider than the thickness of the steel blade. The kerf keeps the sides of the blade from sticking as the saw cuts through the wood.
In addition to using the right saw for the right job, there are a few tips to smooth sawing. First, the wood should be supported and held securely. Clamps, a work bench and sawhorses usually do the trick. After marking a cutting line, assume a comfortable stance over the wood. To start the cut, place the teeth near the handle on the edge of the wood. (For accurate cuts, remember to place the blade on the waste side of the wood). Draw the blade toward your body once or twice to create a kerf. Once the cut has been started, proceed with long, steady strokes.
For crosscutting, the saw should be held at a 45-degree angle to the surface of the wood. For ripping, the saw handle should be more upright, about a 60-degree angle.
As you work to the end of the cut, hold the waste piece with your free hand and finish cutting with shorter, lighter strokes. Holding the waste piece will keep the wood from splitting or breaking away.
Another useful saw is the backsaw, designed to make square or miter cuts. The backsaw has a rigid piece of metal that forms a spine on the top of the blade. This rigid spine keeps the blade stiff for more accurate cuts in molding and smaller pieces of stock.
If you find your old saw is dull and rusted, it can be restored. Use a penetrating oil to wipe away rust. Try several applications. If some rust remains, soak the blade in the oil, then wrap it in a towel. Leave it wrapped for several hours, then try wiping the rust away again. You should store your saw blade in a sleeve; most are sold with a plastic sleeve that covers the teeth or a cardboard sleeve for the blade. Keep these sleeves.
As for saw sharpening, leave it to a professional. It is quickly becoming a lost art, but some sharpening services are provided through hardware stores or tool shops.
Avoid abrasives when trying to clean or restore your saws; they can erase any etchings on the blade. What etchings, you ask? Look for names like Tillotson, Taylor and Disston. Tillotson and Taylor were English manufacturers whose saws were popular in the United States until the mid-1860s. Disston saws dominated the American market beginning from about 1860. These saws are popular with collectors.
So who knows? You might find a valuable antique at the bottom of your toolbox. At the very least, you'll find an old, reliable tool. Oh yes, if you regularly start your projects early on weekend mornings, your neighbors will really enjoy your handsaw. It's virtually noise-free.
Copyright © 2008, Newsday Inc.
