October 13, 2008
Painting Primer
MY DAUGHTERS, 15 and 13, are going to paint their bedrooms. Their brothers, 11 and 9, are going to help.
Asking for trouble, right? Hardly. I was about 11 or 12 when I first started helping my Uncle Sam paint around the house. And here's how old I am-this was before latex paint made it big.
With today's latex (or water-based) paints and quality brushes and rollers, homeowners should embrace the opportunity to do their own interior painting. You can find a latex paint for almost any application, and that means soap-and-water cleanup, a terrific advantage for the do-it-yourselfer. If you follow my Uncle Sam's advice, an inexperienced painter can get near-professional results and save quite a bit of money in labor costs.
"Painting is preparation, application followed by relaxation," my Uncle Sam used to say. Except for clean up, which pretty much was always left to me, his concept was dead- solid perfect. Of course, there's some room for elaboration.
Preparation. From cleaning your walls to moving furniture, this is the most demanding portion of any paint project. If walls and moldings are dirty and greasy, as they might be in a kitchen, wash them with a mild cleaner and rinse with cool, clean water. Let the wall dry thoroughly before applying paint.
Dust does a good job of hiding in that area where the carpet meets the baseboard. Wiping with a damp rag or using a vacuum attachment will clean it out.
Use extra-wide masking tape to cover the carpet fibers along the baseboard. Push one edge of the tape into the space between the carpet and bottom portion of the baseboard.
If using a different color on molding, masking tape also will help create a clean boundary line. Pros might scoff at the use of masking tape, but you don't have their skill with a brush or roller. Tape away, but remember to paint the trim first; save the big areas for last.
Patch any nicks, scratches or holes with spackling or drywall compound. Let it dry thoroughly and then apply primer patches to the spot before painting.
Cover furniture with drop cloths (old bedsheets are fine; plastic sheeting or a tarp is even better). If you can, move the furniture to the center of the room to allow access to all the walls. Cover floors with painter's paper (available at paint-supply stores) and secure it with masking tape. Even the best painters spill some, and rollers and brushes splatter. If you don't want it painted, cover it.
Also take time to prepare your paint. Stir thoroughly before using and have it shaken at the store before you bring it home. Some pros also will "blend" their paint for a more uniform color. For example, say a room needs three one-gallon cans of the same color. A pro will open all three cans, mix them in a five-gallon bucket, then redistribute the paint to the cans. This assures a more uniform color.
Here's a tip for reusing paint. If it has been stuck on a shelf in the basement for some time, dried chips, semi-solid globs and particles can find their way into the bottom of the can. To keep these particles from collecting on rollers and brushes, strain the paint after stirring. Nylon straining bags come in one- and five-gallon sizes that fit neatly into a clean can or container. Paint from the old can then is poured into the new can. Once the new can is filled, the bag can be pulled free, leaving behind a smooth, creamy container of paint. You can find new cans in quart and gallon sizes in paint supply stores and home centers for a few dollars.
Application. It takes a little practice to get the hang of using a roller or brush. If you lack confidence, paint your closets first. That's how I learned, and that's where my children will get their first lessons.
Paint the trim first, the wall corners, and where the wall meets the baseboards and ceiling. Usually, ceilings are painted in a flat white or off-white. If you are painting several rooms, paint as many ceilings as possible and do all the trim work before starting on the walls. To prevent uneven drying, work across the width of the ceiling rather than the length. When painting ceilings or high walls, you can work more quickly with a long-handled roller or roller extension instead of a ladder.
When applying paint with a roller, roll out in the shape of a "V" or a "W," then fill in the letter to make a solid block.
Always work ceiling to floor (top to bottom) and upper left to right (for right-handers) or upper right to left (for left-handers). When using two colors, I don't always use masking tape to create a boundary between moldings and walls. But I never use tape to create a line between the ceiling and the top edge of the wall. I create this line with an angle sash brush, usually 2- or 3-inches wide.
Dip the brush, which has angled bristles, with a thin layer of paint. Wipe one side of the brush clean on the edge of the can. Put the edge of the brush that contains paint against the wall, about 1/8 of an inch below the ceiling. Without letting the bristles touch the ceiling, slowly move the brush toward the ceiling and along the wall line. Begin a steady vibrating motion as you move left to right. Continue this technique as you move along the ceiling line. As you paint along the line, smooth out the paint with light horizontal strokes. Again, work as close to the ceiling as possible without letting the bristles touch the ceiling.
Sometimes, a roller edge will leave a line of paint on the wall. To avoid leaving this line, apply pressure to the edges of the roller with the first couple of strokes, then release the pressure as you roll on the paint. You can brush away the excess paint from the edges before rolling, but this slows the painting process. Learn to work the roller so it doesn't leave that unsightly line.
Relaxation. Take your time. Plan your project. Do all the trim and ceilings before applying your primary color.
While you're painting, ventilate the room (crack open a window), turn on the radio and work deliberately. If you make a mistake, wipe it away with a damp rag. Take advantage of your helpers; allow them to paint moldings and closets.
If you break for lunch or to stretch, wrap roller pans, rollers and brushes in plastic bags to keep them moist. Pour the paint you'll need into smaller containers and roller pans, then seal the larger cans. Save those 3-pound plastic margarine tubs with tops. You can store the paint for trim in these containers for several days. When the project's complete, pour the paint back into its original container.
I tend to avoid gimmick tools; there's a reason quality brushes and rollers have stood the test of time. But paint caps, plastic covers that snap onto one-gallon cans, are a neat twist. The covers allow for easier pouring and storage. When you're done, you can clean and reuse the cap on another job.
Clean up. Latex washes away in soap and water. I always try to paint in the spring and fall, when the weather is mild and I can take some of my cleanup outside.
Before turning to soap and water, remove as much excess paint from rollers and brushes by running them over an area that will be painted in the near future (a closet wall, for example). Soak brushes and rollers in warm, soapy water (dish detergent is fine). Here's a reason to spend a little extra money on quality rollers and brushes, too. You want to clean them for reuse, and good equipment stands up to thorough cleaning. Wire combs can help remove paint from the tops of the brush bristles, and roller scrapers push the excess paint from the roller. Take the time to clean up correctly and you'll get a long life from your equipment, especially brushes.
Don't pour leftover paint or water from the cleanup down the drain, especially if you have a septic tank. Store leftover paint for reuse, and dispose of the soapy water in a hidden area in the yard. The soapy residue does not harm groundwater.
If you still lack confidence to do it yourself, visit your local paint shop for how-to brochures and information. You also can find help on the Web by visiting the National Paint & Coatings Association (www.paint.org) and the Paint & Coatings Industry Information Center (www.paintinfo.org).
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