Gutter Repair

THE NEXT TIME your house springs a leak, look up. Specifically, look to the gutter system that's designed to put a roof's water runoff where it belongs - away from the foundation. If your gutters are sagging, leaking and in all-around terrible shape, it's probably time to replace them.

You might not be able to afford a new gutter system, but you can certainly pay for some overdue repairs. In most cases, 10- and 20-foot sections of aluminum gutters and downspouts are available at building supply stores and home centers for about 50 cents to 60 cents a foot. If you can handle a ladder, rivet tool, drill and hacksaw, you can replace a dented, rusted gutter or downspout in about the same time it takes to run errands on a weekend morning.

The repairs are easier than ever because of newer, labor-saving items such as slip-joint connectors, downspout ends and hidden hangers that have been developed over the past decade.

First, a primer.

Gutters and downspouts divert rainwater and melting ice from the foundation, so they're crucial to keeping a house looking and feeling dry. When they don't work efficiently, water can seep behind siding and the tiniest of openings around window and door frames. This moisture can cause paint - interior and exterior - to peel and breed mold and mildew problems. Excessive water also can mean damp foundations.

When installed properly, gutter systems can last 20 to 30 years. But when portions of those systems fall into disrepair, you can replace them yourself.

The most common type of gutter is 5-inch K-style, which has a rectangular back and a face that resembles wood molding. The term K-style comes from the order in which products are listed in a manual published by the Sheet Metal and Air Conditioning Contractors National Association. The size, 5 inches, signifies the width of the bottom piece. These gutters come in aluminum, galvanized steel, copper and plastic, with painted aluminum the most common.

Most siding contractors use special forming machines mounted on trucks to make long, seamless runs of gutters in a variety of colors. But you'll find white - and maybe even brown, almond and gray - in 10- and 20-foot sections at supply stores and home centers. If you hunt hard enough, you probably can find a building supply center that will run a seamless gutter in a number of other colors. There's also a 6-inch K-style available, but most over-the-counter purchases are of the 5-inch variety.

If you have a large roof and 5-inch gutters seem to overflow with water, try the 6-inch size. Also consider increasing the downspout size. The size of the more slender downspout is referred to as 2x3; the wider style is called 3x4.

If you need gutters longer than 20 feet, have them made at a specialty store. A seamless gutter won't leak. Remember, however, you'll need help installing longer pieces along the fascia board.

The first step is to remove your old section of sagging gutters. Before you do, however, examine the connections and turns closely. Measure the old gutters and duplicate the turns, bends and connections with new items. What you want to do is copy the form of the old gutters. In some cases, new items might eliminate the need to cut and drill. If you're not sure about a part or piece you'll need, take a section of the old gutter along with you to the supply store. Match all the pieces the best you can, and be sure to buy a few extra end caps, gutter outlets, downspout bands, extensions and elbows.

One step you won't want to duplicate is the old-fashioned way of fastening gutters to the fascia board with spikes, long nails and ferrules, or sleeves. This process called for the spike being hammered through the front lip of the gutter, through the ferrule and into the fascia board. This always seemed to result in sagging gutters; after time, the spike loosened, and the gutters would pull away. There are better fastening methods today, including hidden hangers. (We'll get to them later.)

In addition to those new pieces, you'll also need gutter adhesive. Some installers swear by an adhesive that resembles liquid aluminum. I've used it, and it does make for leak-free connections. However, a caulk designed for gutter repair and installation also can be used.

Most of your connection work will be done on the gutters, which need caps at each end and sleeves, or gutter outlets, to attach downspouts. To attach the end caps, dab some adhesive along the inside edge of the caps and then crimp that edge to the gutter using a needle- nose or traditional plier. Work carefully, and if you mess up, use a new end cap. They run less than $1 apiece.

Cutting a hole in the gutter bottom for the outlet and joining two gutter pieces for long runs used to be the most difficult steps in the project. Those tasks have been made easier with pieces called downspout ends and slip-joint connectors. The downspout ends are short gutter pieces with a built-in, pre-formed outlet. The downspout slips over the the outlet. No cutting, no fuss. To join two longer gutter pieces, simply snap ends into a slip-joint connector and use some adhesive. The old way called for overlapping pieces and riveting them together. This increased chances for leaks and looked messy. To ensure a tight fit, consider using a rivet tool on the slip-joint to secure the pieces.

A rivet tool runs about $10 and is a nifty addition to the toolbox. For gutters and downspouts, most connections require a 1/8 drill bit. Drill a hole through both pieces, slip the rivet into the hole, then use the rivet tool to pull and clip the slender piece and set the rivet. (Practice on a couple of old pieces first to get the hang of it. The same technique is used to attach downspouts to outlets.)

One tip: When connecting downspouts to extensions or elbows, insert the top piece into the bottom so water runs into the next connection.

The final steps are attaching the gutters to the fascia board and the downspout to the gutters. It's important to run the gutter at a slope or an angle so water runs to the downspout. After you removed the old gutter, you probably noticed a weathered line on the fascia board. Run the new gutter along this old line and check the slope with a level.

To attach the gutter to the fascia board, skip the spikes and ferrules. The best way to hang gutters is with hidden hangers. These clip-on hangers are attached to the gutters on the ground, and then the hangers connect to the fascia board by long nails or screws. Normal installation calls for a hanger every 3 feet; on runs where snow or ice can form, install hangers every 11/2 feet for more support.

The downspouts then attach to the outlets, and bands are used to strap the downspouts to the house. Secure the downspouts to the outlet with the rivet tool and the bands to the house with roofing nails or galvanized screws. If your gutter system doesn't drain to a drywell, use extensions to divert the water as far away from the foundation as possible.

Gutter repair or replacement is not demanding physical labor, but you will have to be able to climb up and down a ladder. There are shortcuts and tips to installation, so check with your supplier for brochures. Manufacturers offer several twists on slip-joint connectors, hidden hangers and pre-formed inside and outside corners. Lean on your building supplier for product information and advice.