Cleaning Glue From a Wood Floor

House Doctor | Gary Dymski

March 15, 2001

Q. I HAVE A home in Brentwood that was built in the 1950s. My husband and I have been thinking about doing our wood floors. The wood floors in our bedroom and my son's bedroom have been covered with carpet, and the floor in the living room was covered with tile. After removing the carpet, we found that the wood floors are in good condition. The living room floor, however, is a different story. The tiles were glued to the wood, and what's left is a black type of adhesive. We were able to get most of the glue off the wood floor, but some remains. Is there any type of chemical we can use to remove the glue without damaging the wood?

-Cindy Alicea,

Brentwood

A. You have a couple of ways to go, and I always suggest the simplest route in such matters. Since you were able to remove most of the glue, my guess is that you'll be able to get rid of the rest without using any harsh chemicals. The first suggestion is to use boiling water. Lay some old towels or rags over a portion of the floor, then pour boiling water onto the rags. Let the water soak into the glue for several minutes. Once the water has cooled a bit, try wiping up the glue with the rags. You might have to do this several times, using rubber gloves and working on your hands and knees. Use enough water to soak the glue. Wipe up any excess water as quickly as possible and allow the floor to dry thoroughly before sanding.

House Doctor Recent columns

If the water softens but does not dissolve the glue, try scraping it off with a paint scraper. Work carefully so as not to scratch or gouge the floor.

If water doesn't work, try using mineral spirits. Since your glue is dark, almost black, I suspect it is tar-based, and mineral spirits should do the trick. However, I'd expect a living room floor to need quite a bit of mineral spirits. It's relatively inexpensive-$2 to $3 a gallon. I'd start with at least three gallons.

When using mineral spirits, be sure you have some windows open and a fan going. It has a harsh odor, and you want to work with proper ventilation. (Acetone, lacquer thinner or paint thinner might be used, too. They are available at paint stores.)

You also might try good old sandpaper on a dry floor. Use a coarse grade (12 to 20 grit paper is extremely coarse) and sand with the grain. If the glue is hard, it should sand away easily. Depending on the size of the floor, it might get dusty and messy. A shop vac will work well for cleaning up.

After sanding with coarse paper, you'll have to use a fine-grit paper to get the floor smooth. Since you plan on sanding and refinishing anyway, you won't be adding much more work. Hand-sand first, though, with the heavy- grit paper. Using a power sander on the glue will likely gum up the sanding belt.

As for harsh chemicals, I'd make that a last resort. You can find several types of chemical removers at stores that specialize in flooring materials. (Check the phone book.) Be sure to read the manufacturer's directions before you start.

If none of these steps work, you can try removing the glue with a heat gun, available from a tool rental shop. It looks like a blow dryer; however, it delivers intense heat and can scorch the wood if you aren't careful. I'd resort to the heat gun after all other attempts fail. It's my guess you won't need the gun.

If you are successful with water or mineral spirits, be sure to let the floor dry completely before sanding and applying a finish.

Regardless of the solution you come up with, most of this work has to be done on hands and knees. You can buy an inexpensive set of knee pads at a home center or hardware store, or use those foam pads common in home gardening. They'll save wear and tear on your knees.

Since so many homes in New York City and Long Island have hardwood floors, here are two Web sites that provide excellent information on care and refinishing: The Hardwood Information Center (www.hardwood.org) and The National Wood Flooring Association (www.woodfloors.org).