July 24, 2008
Top 10 Things Homeowners Should Know
A few years ago, while working on a story about finding an old-fashioned handyman, one such fellow told me of a specific task he did for a couple each spring. Both husband and wife were so mechanically challenged that they'd hire him to change their light bulbs.
Honest.
Another time, speaking before a senior-citizen group of about 50 women, I asked how many of them knew the locations of their utility shutoffs. In case of emergency, did they know to close the valve for water or natural gas? Could they find the main breaker switch on their electric service panels?
About 10 hands went up. One woman, presumably a widow, muttered, "My husband always took care of those things."
Married or single, every homeowner should be able to do a few household tasks. These range from the simple - locating valves and breaker switches that feed the house water, natural gas and electricity - to the modest - like replacing a light switch (a switch, not a bulb).
The tasks we figure you should be able to perform don't require special hand tools, either. You'll find most of them in your toolbox or utility drawer. If they're not there, you can buy them - most of the tools are less than $10, and the materials less than $20 - at hardware stores or home centers.
And why, you ask, should you know how to perform these tasks? The reasons range from saving money to gaining a measure of independence.
For example, a widow recently told me an electrician would replace several of her faulty outlets for $145 apiece. Another electrician estimated $45 for each. "Why such a disparity?" she wondered. She never got an answer. If she were able to do it herself, she wouldn't need one.
Depending on style, receptacles cost between $4 and $20 (ground fault circuit interrupters are more expensive). Replacing one is a 10-minute job.
Being able to perform these small jobs also means you don't have to bother your daughter's husband or a neighbor. You simply roll up your sleeves and do it yourself. And what's better than that?
1 FIX A LEAKY FAUCET
Why: That drip-drip-drip sound drives you crazy. And you're wasting water.
Tools and materials: Adjustable crescent wrench, screwdriver, hex wrench set, washers, O-rings or a seal-and-spring replacement set.
Procedure: Turn off water - hot and cold - at the shutoff valves, usually inside the cabinet or vanity. Open faucet to drain water. On newer two-handled washerless faucets and old lever styles, a plastic index cap often hides the handle screw. Pop up the cap, and remove the screw and handle. (A tiny inset screw keeps the handle in place on some lever models. Use the hex set to remove the screw. ) The stem or faucet body is now exposed. Use the crescent wrench to remove the retainer ring or lock nut, which holds the stem or body in place. To stop the leak, replace the O-ring on washerless faucets. On lever styles, a rubber-like cover, called a seal, hides a spring inside the faucet cartridge. These need replacing. On older stem-and-seat faucets, the washer is at the bottom of the stem and is held in place by a washer screw.
Tip: As you disassemble parts, line them up on a towel or rag in the same order they were removed. Don't be shy about taking the entire stem piece - write down the brand name and/or model - to the hardware store to purchase the correct replacement parts.
2 PATCH A HOLE
Why: Holes in interior walls tend to be ugly.
Tools and materials: Drywall compound (mud), drywall knife, fiberglass tape, drill, drywall screws, construction adhesive, hole-patching kit, sandpaper.
Procedure: Before patching, cut away loose drywall paper and wipe away chalky debris. To cover small holes, spread compound across the damaged surface. To create smooth edges, gently apply more pressure just before lifting the knife from the wall. Repairing larger holes can require a drywall backing and a patch, both made from scrap drywall, that fit into the opening. To create the backing, cut a piece of drywall that will fit into the hole - but is longer than the opening - and can be gripped with one hand. Dab each edge of the backing with construction adhesive. Insert the backing through the damaged area so it now is on the interior of the wall. Holding the backing in place with one hand, drive a drywall screw through the wall and into each end of the backing. Let the adhesive dry. Using another scrap piece of drywall, make a patch that will fit into the existing hole and can be secured to the backing. Use construction adhesive to glue the patch to the backing. When the adhesive dries, use a large knife to fill with compound. When the compound dries, sand with 100-grit paper or a sanding block. To reduce dust, try smoothing dry area with a moist sponge. Wait until area dries again before sanding. For holes created by doorknobs, consider a patching kit available for about $5. It's a thin metal piece covered with a fiberglass mesh.
Tip: On larger holes, make a backing of thin plywood instead of drywall. Apply mud in thin layers. Cutting away a thin layer of drywall paper from around the damaged area and taping the edges first can prevent mud from cracking when it dries.
Copyright © 2008, Newsday Inc.
