Reviving Bathroom Window Molding

House Doctor | Gary Dymski

September 18, 2003

Q. We have a vinyl replacement window in our tub/ shower with a wood frame that is always peeling and looking a mess from the constant moisture. We cover it with a shower curtain liner and have scraped and painted it several times (with the appropriate "bathroom" paint), but nothing seems to work. We are thinking about completely stripping the paint and applying a polyurethane. Any better suggestions? -N.Y., Levittown

A. Have I got a solution - actually, two - for you. First, it's not your frame that is peeling but the molding around the entire window structure. The frame is the portion of the window that holds the glass. If it's vinyl, it's not peeling. If you can do a little carpentry work, then you can replace this molding quite easily. The two options are replacing the wood with either Azek, a cellular PVC trim board, or polyurethane molding. Each product comes in a flat, white finish (no need to paint it if white is acceptable) and resists rot, split and decay. Plus, each can be cut, nailed, sawed and painted, just like wood.

Carefully remove the old wood "molding" and clean away the caulk and dried paint. If you use Azek, you will want to match the molding width as closely as possible, so take the old pieces to a lumberyard. (Azek retailers include Nassau Suffolk Lumber & Supply, Riverhead Building Supply and Speonk Lumber.)

Once you've matched the molding width, cut the Azek board to fit. You can miter the corners, using a miter box and backsaw. The corners will attach securely with an adhesive specially made by Azek (it's available at the lumberyard, too).

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If you doubt your ability to make precise miter cuts, use the molded polyurethane millwork. These moldings are made for interior and exterior applications by several companies including Fypon Molded Millwork (www.fypon.com) and Balmer Architectural Moldings (www.store.balmer.com). This option also will add some decor to the window. You'll use four corner blocks - one in each corner - to connect the polyurethane molding and eliminate any miter cuts. Use a paintable caulk to seal all gaps between corner blocks and the molding. Use a bathroom caulk - after the molding and corner blocks have been painted - to keep water from pentrating behind the molding and tile.

If you use polyurethane, you'll be using the same carpentry techniques I outlined in my Aug. 21 column about installing decorative framing around a bathroom window.