Put a positive spin on dryer woes

House Doctor | Gary Dymski

December 22, 2005

Your Nov. 10 column on air filters prompts this question. Recently, I received a LIPA bill that was extremely high. I started to pay attention to my electric usage. I noticed that my electric clothes dryer is taking quite long to dry clothes, much longer than it seems to have in the past. The dryer is 10 years old. However, I wash and dry about 12 loads of laundry a week. I am not sure if a dirty exhaust vent could be causing the problem or if it is simply time for a new dryer. Any insight?

Amy P., Huntington
A clogged dryer vent could indeed be a problem, and it could be a fire hazard, too. Lint, dirt and dust often build up at the bottom of the dryer vent or in the exhaust pipe and this buildup can be flammable. Both the rear portion of the dryer, where the flexible pipe is attached, and the pipe itself should be cleaned at least twice a year, probably more frequently in your case. Among the symptoms of a clogged vent are excessive moisture in the laundry room, clothes taking longer than normal to dry or those that won't dry.

Unplug the dryer and pull it away from the wall so you can get to the exhaust pipe. Use a shop-style vacuum or a damp cloth to wipe away dust, lint buildup and dirt inside the pipe and where it attaches to the dryer. Clean the exterior vent, too. You might need to do this from the outside.

House Doctor Recent columns

As for a new dryer, you could be in the market for one; however, you might not realize the energy savings with that new model. Energy Star, the government-backed program that rates appliances, light fixtures and other items according to energy usage, does not label clothes dryers because most of them use similar amounts of energy. But if you visit EnergyStar.gov, you'll find some tips on reducing energy consumption in the laundry room. Tips include using the high-spin option on the rinse cycle of the washer to remove more moisture from the clothes before they hit the dryer and drying clothes outdoors in fresh air whenever possible.

I recently used one of those cylindrical cleaning sticks designed to clean soot and creosote from my oil-burning furnace and chimney. Is there any danger in using such a product? Is it a health risk? Can it harm the boiler or masonry in the fireplace?

Ben Lampert, Queens

Over the years, I've come across dozens of miracle additives that are supposed to clean, refurbish and renew everything from septic tanks to fireplaces. Most of the time, such miracle cures are a waste of money. I'm afraid your cleaning stick falls into that category.

When researching information about cleaning and maintaining chimneys, one of my first sources is WoodHeat.org, run by John Gulland, a wood-burning consultant whose clients include training associations and the Canadian government. That's where I headed with your question.

At the site, the Wood Energy Technical Training reference manual, a part of the Canadian training and certification system for wood heat technicians and inspectors, says many of these so-called "soot-cleaning" sticks are made from chloride-based powders that also contain copper, zinc and other metals. While they are the oldest chimney chemicals, these metals have corrosive properties, especially to steel and cast iron.

The manual says these powders are effective only at high temperatures, so they must be used with intense heat. Burning these sticks with wood can form toxic materials. I'd avoid these sticks and clean the old-fashioned way: with stuff brushes and cleaning solutions designed to break down the crusty creosote.

If you want great information on maintaining your chimney and removing soot and creosote, visit WoodHeat.org.

By the way, if you think a chemical treatment is the way to go for your fireplace, Gulland recommends manganese-based liquids. Be sure to follow the manufacturer's directions. READ BEFORE YOU WORK One of the best magazines on home repair and remodeling happens to be Fine Homebuilding by Taunton Press. The same detail - sketches, photographs and concise professional advice - found in the magazine is evident in "Renovation, 3rd Edition" (2005, Taunton Press, $39.95). Although both have the same publishing company and the creative input of author Michael W. Litchfield, the revised and updated book is not a rehash of magazine material. (Litchfield also was involved in the launch of the magazine in the early 1980s.) Rather, it's 20 thorough chapters on subjects such as home systems (roofing, plumbing and electrical), building materials, job planning and home inspection. Whether buying, renovating or just concerned about plain old upkeep, this is a must for your home-repair library.

WRITE TO: Gary Dymski, 235 Pinelawn Rd., Melville, NY 11747-4250 or e-mail Gary.Dymski@newsday.com