Talking to designer Thuy Diep

By Jessie Pascoe | Metromix.com

4:52 PM EDT, September 3, 2008

Designer Thuy Diep in her studio, getting ready for Fashion Week (Kathryn Yu)

Showing at Bryant Park for the first time would make most designers nervous. Not Thuy Diep.

Hailing from a family of Vietnamese tailors, Thuy (pronounced "Twee") has been showing her eponymous label for only three years, yet her confidence -- and talent -- belie that of a seasoned designer.

It's clear, however, that she is still evolving. From her first collection of mainly blacks and grays, her spring collection works in a palette that includes poppy red, teal green and electric blue.

We recently met Diep at her SoHo studio. Her crush on Tim Gunn became apparent and her belief in dressing solely for yourself had us developing a crush on her.

Tell me about spring. Color is becoming quite important to me. There's a sense of optimism for me. If you trace the colors [throughout my collections], you can actually map where I am emotionally.

So you're in a good mood? I am in a good mood!

What inspired you this season? The point of departure was "The Painted Veil." The main character was Kitty Fane, played by Naomi Watts. What I got from this character was her love, which was really a mature love, and I reimagined what Kitty Fane would be like as a contemporary woman.

Any other new spring departures? We collaborated this season with Lincoln. It's our first collaboration with a shoe designer. [The shoes] are kind of like a boot-sandal in electric blue with stingray details and are a little bit tougher, which rounds out the collection. We are also doing black-tie and belts.

What is one of your favorite pieces from spring? A black jacquard coat.

Who is your ideal customer? I dress a woman who is very strong, very urban, and not afraid to be her own person. I couldn't really dress someone who is dressing to please a guy.

What models are you looking to cast for the runway show? I want women who are healthier, prettier and a little more diverse. I want to have more Asians and black models. Before, for us it has been difficult because there are so few of them and all the designers want them. Hopefully, we are able to have more luck with getting a more diverse group for this show.

You went to Parsons. Did you meet Tim Gunn? I did a student show and I remember him saying that it was so beautiful. It meant a lot to me. He's a saint.