DAY 3: Celebrating Fashion Week with DKNY, DVF, Tracy Reese and more

Anne Bratskeir, Joseph V. Amodio

6:37 PM EDT, September 7, 2008

A look from the Diane Von Furstenberg spring 2009 show

Donna Karan paid tribute to the city and the 20th anniversary of DKNY, Diane von Furstenberg honored the goddesses of rock, while a number of spring Fashion Week runways--Herve Leger, Rosa Cha' and Rock & Republic--simply celebrated the human body.

DKNY Donna Karan threw herself a 20th birthday blast for DKNY that had it all: a taxicab yellow runway, a film homage to New York on a giant screen, celebs ( Winona Ryder said that Donna was "kinda great"), and a rambunctious lineup of clothes. Darling bowed minidresses, tiny fluttery skirts, floral tweed coats and biker vests; the finale, led by Karan's granddaughter, included loads of kids and many vintage DKNY looks. And, speaking of vintage, a special DKNY bottle of champagne was placed on every seat in the house. Oh, the show had one more thing -- a protest. Two anti-fur women stormed the runway after the show, which PETA said included rabbit fur, and were arrested, according to security. -- Anne Bratskeir

Diane von Furstenberg Wait, where are we? Maybe it was the styling -- strands of flowers, feathers and fabric woven into messy hair -- but von Furstenberg's runway collection was missing her signature style. Not that it was bad, in fact, parts were delightful. Dedicated to the rock goddess, many of these looks smacked more of flower child -- diaphanous tops, harem pants, flowing maxi dresses, lacey shifts, embellished caftans, hey, even a pair of jeans. Yes, there where two "wraps" -- a maxi and a bathing suit-- and some sweet frocks that were work-worthy. But overall, DVF's customers with jobs should plan upon taking extended vacations next spring. -- Anne Bratskeir

Herve Leger We envisioned backstage dressers having to butter the models to get them into beyond form-fitting numbers that stormed the runway. But the sculptural bandage (and sometimes bondage) is the Leger trademark and the effect of these minidresses, skirts and poured-on gowns is frankly make-you-faint sexy. The color story was simple but strong, from neutrals like chalk and oyster to vivid lipstick-red and coral. A few guys in the crowd could have used smelling salts during the finale, when the models shed the dresses and strutted in cutout swimsuits. -- Anne Bratskeir

Lela Rose Is the bloom off the Rose now that favored clients -- the Bush twins -- are moving out of the spotlight? No way. In a collection inspired by colors, shapes and African tribal prints, classy gals will find plenty to wear, including brilliantly colored "heat map" pattern tops paired with full organza skirts, swell coats such as a yellow dip-dyed track jacket, and a few lovely ladylike dresses. Some of the evening gowns were a bit staid, but would be perfectly serviceable for a formal political function. -- Anne Bratskeir

Tracy Reese Inspired by nature, gardens and spring, Reese's collection proved she is no shrinking violet when it comes to using color. Though the shades were mostly luscious -- nectarine, jade green, azalea -- some, like the cotton-candy pink, lacked sophistication. These were some of the prettiest and girliest dresses so far at Fashion Week, featuring Monet-like garden patterns and flower or leaf appliqués. There were dresses for dancing, dreaming and scene stealing, though one of our favorite looks was the linen eyelet trouser topped by a stunning peplum top that looked like a painted canvas of flowers. -- Anne Bratskeir

Rosa Cha' No one will break any Olympic records in Brazilian designer Amir Slama's bathing suits -- but they're sure racy. He offers fiery (hot red one- and two-piece suits slung with leather belts) and frilly (delicate lace pieces zapped with crystals). One flaming suit dips to one side of the body, like an unevenly burning candle, exposing a swath of waist and abs. Just avoid those torturous green platform sandals. Models' toes jammed through the feeble fishnet straps holding it all together. How do you say "ouch" in Portuguese? -- Joseph V. Amodio

Rock & Republic Black -- white -- tight. That's the holy trinity for men and women, according to R&R creative director Michael Ball. And there was a lot of each at his show. His female models must've been taking short, shallow breaths as they sauntered down the runway wearing nipped-in jackets with ruffled lapels on top, painted-on leggings and rubber-band miniskirts on bottom. For guys, black blazers with skinny white pants grabbed attention. But most entertaining were the prints -- a connect-the-dots design (called "wired balls"), or barcode patterns (called "show your I.D.") played well on leggings and sexy dresses that were long, flowing and, in one case, barely closed in front. -- Joseph V. Amodio

ETC

JOYFEST AT THE GAP: A gallery space housed the cheery Gap spring lineup featuring loads of pastels and stripes. "There's a fresh American feeling in the air," said designer Patrick Robinson, "and I love that optimism." On the scene was his good friend, designer Carolina Herrera, wearing, mixed in with her high-end duds, a crisp white Gap button-down shirt, which she happily showed off to him. P.S. He sent it to her. -- Anne Bratskeir

CHOCOLATE COUTURE. Eva Longoria Parker and models in Pamella Roland dresses served up new M&Ms Premiums at Bryant Park yesterday. "M&Ms is the all-time favorite American candy," said ELP. She likes the mocha, and "I have a weakness for the mint," she added, noting two of five new gourmet flavs. Are they any good? They're soft, plumper, with -- get this -- no candy coating. Uh, hello! That's half the fun of M&Ms. Remember "New Coke?" But we still love you, Eva. -- Joseph V. Amodio

SAMSUNG GETS STYLISH. Samsung's free Valentino exhibit, the first in their "Icon" series, features gowns, sketches and clips from an upcoming documentary (shown on Samsung's slick new HDTVs and camcorders, natch). Open through Wednesday, 12 pm to 8 pm, north side of the Grace Building, Sixth Ave. at 43rd St. -- Joseph V. Amodio