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Open in Farmingdale: Village Kitchen

A turkey club is one of the sandwiches

A turkey club is one of the sandwiches on the menu at the Village Kitchen in Farmingdale, May 27, 2014. (Credit: Newsday / Erica Marcus)

Behold the club sandwich, in which a slew of ingredients that I usually avoid — iceberg lettuce, unripe tomatoes, turkey breast, white toast — are layered with two ingredients I'm always happy to see — bacon and mayonnaise. The result is a sandwich whose whole is usually far greater than the sum of its parts. That was the case today at Village Kitchen, recently opened in Farmingdale.

Village Kitchen takes the Main Street space long occupied by Bollingers, but the renovation has rendered unrecognizable that retro-styled ice-cream parlor. The new decor is sleek and modern, with neutral tones of leather, tile and granite. Village Kitchen’s menu is firmly in the diner camp — sandwiches, salads, burgers, wraps and eggs, with some Greek specialties as well. No more homemade ice cream, though.

My turkey club ($10.95) came with good herbed fries. A Nicoise salad (made with hard-boiled egg, overcooked green beans, olives and, unconventionally, baby spinach, raw mushrooms and green peppers) and a more traditional Cobb salad were both $12.95, both serviceable. The club sandwich was the clear winner.

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Village Kitchen, 282 Main St., Farmingdale, 516-752-8696, villagekitchenli.com.

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