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The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene

Cucina di Vargas: Italian family-style in Hewlett

Clams casino and chicken limone at Cucina di

Photo credit: Handout

New to Hewlett is Cucina di Vargas, a family-style restaurant that’s run by a family. The owner of the place is Erica Vargas, the manager, her brother, Danny Vargas. The chef is their father, Narciso Vargas, who was the original chef at the former Matteo's in Hewlett.

Portions here are geared to large parties, with full orders serving 3 to 4 people and half orders meant for 2. On the menu:...

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Lula in Mineola launches lunch

The Parma thin-crust pizza at Lula Trattoria in

Photo credit: Johnny Simon

Lula Trattoria, the likable, Italian-ish restaurant in Mineola, is now serving lunch Tuesday through Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Chef Tom Gloster says he is working on a lunch menu, but for now, the dinner menu — composed of many lunch-friendly small plates — is in effect.

Lula Trattoria is at 348 E. Jericho Tpke., Mineola, 516-747-5100....

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A sweet time at La Pace in Glen Cove

Warm sfogliatelle highlight the desserts at La Pace

Photo credit: Newsday/Peter Gianotti

There are plenty of reasons to visit La Pace with Chef Michael in Glen Cove.

Here are three: sfogliatelle, warm chocolate cake, dark chocolate mousse.

Pictured above are the flaky, multilayered sfogliatelle, the delicate, clamshell shaped pastries with a sweet ricotta-based filling, finished with vanilla and orange oil. They're  served warm. Given the portion at La Pace, three reasons...

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Suozzi restaurant opens in Glen Cove

Helene and Tom Suozzi in the dining room

Photo credit: Newsday / Audrey C. Tiernan

Tom and Helene Suozzi may not be making the chicken parm or the pizza served at tonight's opening, but the political couple has been instrumental in renovating and relaunching Glen Cove's (and, probably, Long Island’s) oldest Italian restaurant, Stango's.

Now called Stango's at the Orchard, the restaurant's timeworn look has been refreshed while still conveying a sense of the past. Wood tables...

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Caruso's in Rocky Point: Lunch bonanza

A lunch special at Caruso's in Rocky Point:

Photo credit: Newsday/Joan Reminick

A ten-spot may not always buy very much, but at Caruso’s in Rocky Point, it can snag you a lunch worth the trip. Included in the tab is soup or a salad, plus coffee or tea. Most seafood items incur a $3 surcharge.

The kitchen is under the command of chef co-owner Wayne Waddington, who also owns the fancier, pricier La Plage in Wading River. Nothing fancy about this pizzeria, with a large dining...

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3 Brothers Pizza Cafe: New and vegan in Farmingdale

Jay Astafa and his award winning vegan pizza

Photo credit: 3 Brothers Pizza Cafe

Vegans on Long Island may recall Jay Astafa, whose vegan pizza was named best in the nation by PETA (People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals) back in 2011. Astafa and his dad, Andy, who owned the 3 Brothers Pizza Cafe in Rockville Centre, have since sold their original restaurant (whose new owners have kept the name, menu and recipes) and, today, launch their 3 Brothers Pizza Cafe in Farmingdale....

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3 Brothers Pizza Cafe: Vegan and new in Farmingdale

Jay Astafa and his award winning vegan pizza

Photo credit: 3 Brothers Pizza Cafe

Vegans on Long Island may recall Jay Astafa, whose vegan pizza was named best in the nation by PETA (People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals) back in 2011. Astafa and his dad, Andy, who owned the 3 Brothers Pizza Cafe in Rockville Centre, have since sold their original restaurant (its owners have kept the name, menu and recipes) and, today, launch the new 3 Brothers Pizza Cafe in Farmingdale....

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Sopranos’ Vito cooking at Il Luogo, Lynbrook

Joseph R. Gannascoli, aka Vito Spatafore on quot;The

Photo credit: AP

Il Luogo is a promising new restaurant that took over the Lynbrook space once occupied by Paul Anthony’s. The ambitious menu, from executive chef Marco Jara, blends Italian flavors with inventive platings. On Tuesday nights, there’s another draw: Actor Joe Gannascoli is in the kitchen.

Gannascoli is best known for playing the ill-fated gay mobster Vito Spatafore on HBO's “The Sopranos,” but...

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Benny's in Westbury: Still the one

At Benny's Ristorante in Westbury, eggplant rollatine is

Photo credit: Benny's Ristorante

Benny's  Ristorante in Westbury has earned high ratings for years. Based on a recent visit, it still does.

The traditional Italian restaurant has taken a few contemporary turns, but what will make  you want to return is the exceptional preparation of classic dishes. That's coupled with excellent service in a serene dining room. Basically: a restaurant for adults.

Standouts...

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Attilio's Grill: From Smithtown to St. James

A plate of chicken and eggplant, served at

Photo credit: Newsday Joan Reminick

It's been several months since Attilio’s Grill relocated from a long-held Smithtown address to the digs of the former Bella Vita City Grill in St. James. The place was packed on a recent night when I stopped in for dinner. Clearly, chef-owner Sammy Mancini has a following. It doesn’t hurt that his straightforward Italian-American menu is so gently priced.

Crabcakes, at $7.95 for two, were...

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