Long Island usually has been as hospitable to French restaurants as the Russian winter was to Napoleon's army. But there are just enough eateries devoted to the cuisine, especially for the heartier fare of bistros. Here are three that go for liberty, equality and fraternity.
Almond relocated last year and immediately re-established itself as the Hamptons' top bistro-style eatery. Go for the citrus-marinated sardines, steamed mussels, hanger steak au poivre, roast chicken, chocolate pot de crème. Excellent burger, too.
The cozy charmer is a downtown Huntington mainstay. Recommended dishes include steak frites, hanger steak Bordelaise, pistachio-crusted rack of lamb, frisée aux lardons, mussels marinière and, on Saturday, braised short ribs in a red-wine reduction.
55B Wall St., Huntington; 631-421-4122, cassishuntington.com
Chez Noelle has outlasted the trend du jour and sticks with many of the plats toujours. Sample Dover sole meunière, rack of lamb, duck breast with orange sauce, braised sweetbreads, escargots á la Bourguignonne.