On a serene smoke-and-fragrance filled runway carpeted in pink and so narrow that models’ dresses swept the audience’s feet, Jason Wu roared.

The first half of the show featured quirky menswear pairings inspired by Irving Penn’s personal style -- an oversized eggplant plaid short sleeved jacket over a kooky but cool silver pailette skirt. The feel was smart, cozy and casual.

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Not so for dresses, many featuring stunning abstract gold leaf ornamentation -- a sheath perfect for Michelle Obama in burgundy satin, and several feather confections “caged” with tulle overlays, a girly-to-the-max waterfall dress with ostrich feather embroidery. For women who don’t plan on sitting down at the party, gigantic wide hooped skirts, and -- one strapless tea length in blush, killer -- some a tad cartoonish but certainly show stopping.

The huge ivory finale dress gilded in gold was perfect for a royal wedding.

PHOTOS: Jason Wu Fall 2010 runway looks