At the start of his show, Marc Jacobs, the consummate showman, ripped down a brown paper wall, revealing rows of models. They walked the runway in neutrals mostly, hems lingering past the knee. Smart suits; sequin-front knits; bell-shaped jackets, skirts and coats; and massive outerwear (like a shearling poncho). A throaty rendition of “Somewhere Over the Rainbow” played.

Only near the end did he reveal hints of color -- the barely yellow skirt, or pale green sweater with shimmering gown. As if to say, “Oh, Toto... we’re still in Kansas,” but maybe a new day is upon us.

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PHOTOS: Marc Jacobs Fall 2010Marc by Marc Jacobs Fall 2010

MORE: Past Marc Jacobs collections from New York Fashion Weeks