Happy Hostess Caterers, 318A Sunrise Hwy., Rockville Centre, 516-766-1046, happyhostess.com

Happy Hostess has been roasting birds in Rockville Centre for more than six decades. The heart of the shop are three armoire-sized rotisserie ovens, each equipped with seven spits on which spin (slowly, slowly) all manner of juicy, burnished-skinned fowl.

Chickens (between 3 and 3½ pounds) and turkeys (ranging from 10 to 22 pounds) are $5.98 a pound. Cornish hens stuffed with rice are $11.98 apiece. Prefer a wingless dinner? Brisket is $29.98 a pound. Also on offer: noodle kugel, mushroom barley, kasha varnishkes.

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Max's Appetizing and Kosher Delicatessen, 1483 Broadway, Hewlett, 516-374-0617, maxsappetizingkosherdeli.com

Founded in 1947, Max's has a small selection of deli meats, but the emphasis here is on the bagel-friendly fish and dairy cuisine traditionally called "appetizing." Nova Scotia salmon and the richer, saltier belly lox are both $55 a pound. Silky, elegant smoked sturgeon is $60, as is the smoked sable; chubbs and brook trout are $20, the clean, bright whitefish salad, $25. Other highlights: blintzes, kreplach, stuffed cabbage and nearly a dozen salads, $8 to $18 a pound.