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Donna Karan: New jersey (the fabric, not the state)
Donna Karan’s models had black, smudged eyes and sleek, high, swingy ponytails wrapped tightly at the base, creating a contradictory canvas that was simultaneously primitive and sophisticated.
Her stretch jersey-centric collection sent out that very same vibe. And if you give Karan jersey to work with, well she can do practically anything.
So, this time around, Karan went savage glam in a lineup that had a primal beat with an urbane veneer. Capes, here, were languid and sensual affairs, seeming flung over a shoulder without thought. But, in fact, virtually, every piece in this collection was intricately worked with inserts, cutouts, seaming and sculpting. And then there was the inventive interplay of textures -- so tactile, you wanted to feel each item: a haircalf coat, a longhair shearling cowl and a stretch jersey bodysuit, all in one look.
A green-brown crystal embroidered leather top with a matching cape over jersey pants was luxe but not loud, though, if there was an off note, it was evening looks where we hoped to find a little more light and joy, and relief from the dark, earthy tones, but for sure, it was anything but run of the mill.
In her notes, Karan wrote, “These are clothes for women like me -- who live and work 24/7 with passion and dress with emotion.” Come fall, that emotion, for much of this collection, will be lust... as in you’ll be lusting for lots of stuff here.