Talk of the Tents

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Francisco Costa, a new look at the Calvin Klein New York Fashion Week

The first looks at the Calvin Klein Collection

The first looks at the Calvin Klein Collection fashion show during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week spring 2014 at Spring Studios were stunning: sand-colored separates with contrasting (orange!) exposed folds at the seams. (Sept. 12, 2013) (Credit: Getty Images)

Calvin Klein creative director Francisco Costa celebrated his 10th year at the helm of the fabled house on Thursday in a vast, new space on Varick Street. And while the name of the company may be Calvin Klein, this was definitely Costa’s moment.

“After a decade with the brand, I feel I have respected the legacy of the house, while pushing it forward and I am invigorated by what lies a head,” he said in notes.

What does lie ahead for spring? Modern but not minimalistic, almost every piece in the collection had frayed edges. The first looks were stunning: sand-colored separates with contrasting (orange!) exposed folds at the seams. Wide, sheer inserts were worked into oversized T-shirts creating an architectural look.

Draping and pleating throughout was somewhat gravity defying as in the case of a wrapped, double-faced jersey top that swooped off to one side. A patchwork black-and-white sleeveless dress appeared almost folkloric from afar, but it was leather. And though there was plenty of black and white, Costa wasn’t shy about splashing the lineup with color -- there were blasts of green and red.

Quirkiest in the collection, which Costa referred to as an “urban mix”? Super slouchy painters pants that hung low in the rear and seemed to reference hip-hop wear.

A surprise at the end -- a series of last looks that went 1920s flapper (did somebody say Calvin Klein and flapper in the same sentence?) comprised entirely of loose threads that undulated when the models walked the enormous runway. And that’s the only sticking point about this wonderful collection -- the space. Though very industrial and cool, it was massive and the assembled may have missed out on some of the details and textures of the collection.

That said, congratulations are in order all around to Costa, for the milestone anniversary and a collection that spoke -- loud and clear -- in his own voice.