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Marchesa: Luxe at the library
Designers have their niches. Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig own theirs: luxurious, ornate gowns for princess brides and red-carpet sirens.
Their show at New York Public Library, in a space with heavy drapery, gold chairs and plush white carpet, featured 27 gowns and dresses that were a feast for the eye and the imagination.
The duo traveled to different decades to create each piece. From the 1920s they drew details such as silk fringe and swinging pearl layers – one gown was a swirl of pearls from neck to toe. They reportedly were stringing it right up until show time.
Hand painted florals layered upon tulle recalled the 1930s, while lace cutout bralettes peeking through dresses with transparent overlays harkened to the 1950s.
Embellishments included silk ribbon roses – one confection was a mass of these. There were lace butterflies and bird motifs, along with vintage gold and silver re-embroidered lace, hand-painted three-dimensional flowers and dip dyed feather plumes. In other words, the detailing was elaborate.
In seasons past, Marchesa has gone the route of big blown out ball gowns, but its show silos got distinctively slimmer likely making the dresses more appealing to the red-carpet set.
And though the Marchesa gals rarely follow trends, even they could not avoid the crop top, which has prevailed on runways all over town this season.