Crispy shallot latkes with sugar dusting (and the 3 rules of lakes)
THERE ARE TWO of us in Jayne Cohen's Greenwich Village kitchen, but it feels like three: When Cohen makes potato latkes for Hanukkah, the presence of her maternal grandmother, Rebecca Suffin, seems almost palpable.Cohen, whose cookbook, "The Gefilte Variations" (Scribner, $35), contains as many fond family stories as it does Jewish-themed recipes, grew up in Long Beach, and her childhood memories...
