When the wind howls and a chill goes through you, seek out one of these restaurants, where the warmth comes through in both food and ambience.
The rear dining room of this pizzeria-trattoria is tasteful and comfortable, done in tones of taupe and silver. To eat: shrimp marinara, plump shellfish in a lively sauce followed, perhaps, by al dente linguine with clams.
CUZCO PERU RESTAURANT , 323 Merrick Rd., Lynbrook, 516-599-4727
The polyglot cuisine of Peru -- both distinctly Latin-American and filled with Asian and European influences -- is served in a warmly attractive setting with bold Inca symbols lining the walls and sky-painted hangings overhead.
PRIMO PIATTO GASTRO BAR & PIZZETTE , 138 E. Main St. Huntington, 631-935-1391
A booth in the rear dining room of this welcoming pizzeria-trattoria is a choice location -- preferably with a bowl of al dente spaghetti and lush, tender meatballs. Or bucatini chi sarde, an authentic Sicilian pasta dish whose rich sardine sauce is laced with pine nuts, raisins, saffron, bread crumbs and wild fennel.
SAL'S RISTORANTE , 1012 Jericho Tpke., Smithtown, 631-543-6000
On wintry nights, the new Italian place has a certain radiance, its butternut squash-colored walls hung with resolutely cheerful art. Settle into one of the comfortable upholstered booths and order a glass of wine -- plus a focaccia pillow.