If you took all the linguine served on Long Island and set it end to end ... well, it would be a waste of some very good pasta. Here are four restaurants where you'll find many pleasures al dente.
It may take a chilly ferry ride, but you'll warm up fast when you reach 18 Bay. This locavore delight offers a set menu each week. The pastas are wonderful year-round, from cannelloni with goat-milk ricotta and zucchini flowers to caramelized-parsnip fiorini with lobster ragu.
The pasta highlights at the local landmark include memorable rigatoni all'Amatriciana, ricotta ravioli in pink sauce, lasagna Bolognese, veal-and-chicken agnolotti in cream sauce with nutmeg and Parmesan cheese, and spaghetti with fresh tomato sauce, eggplant and ricotta salata.
The winners here start with classic spaghetti alla carbonara and bucatini all'Amatriciana, fettuccine Bolognese to butternut-squash ravioli. And don't forget the ricotta gnocchi with sausage, fennel and tomatoes.
, 532 North Country Rd. St. James; 631-584-3518
The pastas put out by chef-owner Steven Gallagher are terrific, from the smoky-sweet spaghetti all'Amatriciana and superrich bucatini alla carbonara to hearty paccheri with a suckling-pig ragu, and delicate squash-and-apple ravioli with dates and sage brown butter. And veer Bolognese with either pappardelle in meat sauce or the light, five-layer lasagna. He also prepares a grand eggplant alla Parmigiana.