Americana Prime Steakhouse attracts you with wet-aged beef, attentive service, and a flush setting.

You always feel like a guest at Americana Prime Steakhouse.

It's situated in an opulent catering facility.

Americana is the latest from chef and restaurateur Chani Singh, whose very good local contributions have included Curry Club in East Setauket and the departed Chani's Unique Indian Restaurant in Islip.

His approach at Americana is dependably fine, earnest and often creative for the steakhouse genre. But the experience, in a glitter-ceiling dining room where a true table for two is as rare as steak tartare, does make you feel as if 100 mini beef Wellingtons are almost ready to make their entrance.

The look is very bright, veering toward grandiose, accented with striking woodwork and paintings that evoke a period well before that of the crystal-studded, high-back chairs. The Meadow Club Caterers, a partner of Curry Club, is on the former site of The Wagon Wheel restaurant.

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Americana's fare, however, is of the moment, presentation to price. Better starters take in the house-made baba ghanoush and hummus, which aren't typically steakhouse stuff. The shrimp cocktail: obligatory. The satisfactory, aioli-and-caviar crowned crabcake arrives prettily set on a pomegranate coulis. Despite its architectural style, the "Shanghai Tower" spring roll with chicken, scallion, and peppers is on the dull side.

French onion soup gratinée could have more depth of flavor, but it's generously cheesed. The Caesar salad features Parmesan-crusted croutons that do hide the taste of the cheese; the steakhouse salad sports slivers of green apple, shaved "Asiago/Parmesan cheese," toasted almonds and good greens.

Wet-aged steak is Americana's main attraction. The juicy 18-ounce "cowboy" rib-eye stands out, as it should for $63. Likewise, the tender, thick $44 filet mignon; and the flavor-packed 22-ounce, $55 T-bone. All are cooked precisely to order. There's competition from the porterhouse for two, New York strip steak and marinated versions of most cuts.

The alternatives are a rosy, sliced duck breast, with slices of orange in aspic that has the consistency of Jell-O; and a moist stuffed chicken "airline" breast, so called because it lands with a wing. Seaside, it's the standard catch of Chilean sea bass, salmon, shrimp. Lobster, an autumn visitor was advised, is "out of season."

Accompany your steak with an ample baked potato rather than either the dense garlic, blue cheese, or curry-spiked mashed potatoes; or underseasoned creamed spinach.

Feed Me

Leading the so-so sweets is the "coconut cheesecake tower" with a mango coulis.

Hold out for the wedding cake.