Angora in Medford is not so much a restaurant as a few tables in a Turkish market. The place is convenient to the LIE; the food is as authentic and satisfying as it is inexpensive. The downside: You order at the counter. Plates are paper, cutlery is plastic.

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Highlights of a recent meal included a spirited version of ezme salad, a mélange of tomatoes, chopped vegetables and spices, followed by a mixed grill: juicy chicken and lamb kebab, house-made gyro, well-seasoned Adana and kofte kebabs, both made from minced lamb and a variety of spices. The meat was served over a wholesome-tasting bulgur pilaf.