The pan-Asian restaurant seems well on its way to becoming the darling of the Long Island dining scene. Serving everything from moo shu beef to Japanese udon noodles to pad Thai to chicken satays, the typical catch-all spot takes in an entire continent of culinary traditions, often striking a compromise between authenticity and all-American appeal.

At Asian Moon, newly arrived in Garden City, Americans who want to sample a smattering of Thai, Malaysian, Japanese and Indonesian fare can enjoy the vibrant (if sometimes suburbanized) intepretations of chef Brian Zheng, who does some of his best work with the fare of his native China. Surroundings, too, have a Chinese flavor -- lots of dark polished wood, pretty artifacts and a tranquil waterfall. On a busy weekend evening, though, any semblance of serenity is displaced by the clamor of the crowd.

One such bustling night, dinner began with Zheng's vegetarian hot and sour soup, a rich .Sichuan brew with a proper jolt. I enjoyed the lobster meat with asparagus soup, an eggy .sesame-tinged broth with floating bits of asparagus and a few nice chunks of lobster. A vegetable and bean curd soup of no specified origin had hints of coconut, a Southeast Asian accent.

A standout was Zheng's light and delicate dim sum, bundles of near-translucent pasta filled with a lively mixture of shrimp and pork. Good, but not in that same league, were Indonesian chicken satays, which had been marinated in a curry blend before being grilled to tenderness on wood skewers.

At lunch, a Malaysian red curry with shrimp had depth and subtlety. A friend's sesame-crusted wild salmon with black bean sauce fell short, though, because the fish had been overcooked.

As a vegetarian dinner entree, I ordered Asian greens, expecting at least one of those greens to be baby bok choy. What came, however, was a decidedly non-Asian stir-fry dominated by American broccoli and red pepper. "Those are our Asian greens," the waitress maintained when questioned. A manager, overhearing, intervened. "The menu is wrong; it should say stir-fried mixed vegetables," she said, offering a substitute of stir-fried baby bok choy, which arrived cooked to an ideal semi-wilted state, served in a fragrant broth-like sauce.

Chicken with Sichuan peppercorn sauce was straightforward, peppery and resonant. Grilled lemongrass chicken looked as though it would be dry, but the thin cutlets turned out surprisingly moist, suffused with Thai marinade. Another winning Thai dish was the tender and fragrant basil beef with shiitake mushrooms, Thai basil and ginger. My favorite, though, was that old Chinese restaurant standby, pork chow fun -- simple but sumptuous.

I passed on tiramisu and crème brûlée cheesecake for dessert, which, even in a Pan Asian restaurant, is a kind of sacrilege. A cup of green tea, pure and right, was all the ending I needed.

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Reviewed by Joan Reminick, 11/18/05.